Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello all, I am new here, thanks for sharing the professional information in sau.

My battery was dead and I am planning to get an optima yellow top for my r33 gtst s1(battery in the boot), I knew D51 will be direct swap, but I am keen to get a bigger one, does anyone know which one can be fit in to r33 without any modification? Is D34 or D35 can fit in easily? Thanks

Nick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/458821-optima-yellow-top-on-r33-fitment/
Share on other sites

Personally i choose size of battery based on OEM physical dimensions, with the highest CCA in that size. Makes fitment a lot easier and with low comp turbo cars, huge CCA is wasted anyway. I used to install batteries for a living and hated trying to jam the wrong size into any car, unless space, cables and hold down clamp permitted. Dealing with hack jobs later on sucks too, like those dodgy brass terminals, cut cables that need to be stretched and cheap hold down brackets with wingnuts

Edited by junkie

D51 is more than enough, I've been running one in my 3l stagea for years. don't forget these are reasonably low compression motors with good electronics so they start pretty easy. The only time I'd be a bit hesitant is if you have an aftermarket tune without good cold start.....even then you are a better to fix the cold start than get a bigger battery.

Like Junkie said the problem you are most likely to have is with poor adaption of the wrong battery size to the factory loom. Its the sort of thing that is normally OK for a while then you start to get annoying drop outs or undercharging because of poor connections.

BTW I think its D51R to get the terminals around the right way, double check before you order. The have models with terminals on either side, and also in either size

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map".
    • What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought.  
    • For me there is a massive difference in manufacturer or big brand crippled android (Sony, Kenwood etc) vs the sort of thing I've installed here, which is basically just a tablet in DIN form factor with open Android, and the other model of course is mirroring - Android Auto/Carplay. I hate the locked down manufacturer and AA options where they decide what apps I'm allowed to install, including the Launcher but also importantly things like Ecutek (for this car) or Real Dash (Stagea) are not supported. Plus those crippled versions tend to be slower due to both overheads and lower spec hardware. On the other hand, when this breaks I'll likely be in trouble for support....but how is that different to owning an Infiniti anyway
    • Yeah, Duncan is helping sell me back to Android devices. I've hated the whole Android head units due to their speed issues. Even in my old Hyundai Kona (2022 model), it behind the scenes was Android, and slow and shitty to start up. Once running wasn't bad, but still a good 15 to 30 seconds.
    • My roof rails are off atm on the E39 until the rust is fixed. I did find another little bit of surface rust under the rails when I took them off. As @soviet_merlin said I'd just leave them alone unless you're planning on ensuring they're properly sealed. I was on the fence about leaving them off as the delete is still a thing in BMW E39's but I feel like the car is missing something (er, it is, der) with them off and I'm looking forward to putting them back on.
×
×
  • Create New...