Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, I have been researching this topic for a while and the opinions are quite mixed,

I have a built Rb30det Neo torque monster built by Lewis engines, the head has been ported out extensively and currently has 272 cams sitting in it,

I want to downgrade my camshafts to be able to retain vct,

My end goal is to produce max torque as early as possible in the rev range (max rpm 7200)

The important bit is i want to engineer the conversion so I need to keep emissions down.

Should I

A) Downgrade to poncams 252 or 260 have heard they can pass emissions test have only heard but can anyone please confirm.

B) Put standard cams back in.

Engine specs are as follows

Lewis engine rb25/30 Neo torque monster

Extensively ported with 24psi spring upgrade

8.2cr

Rips racing plenum 90mm throttle body

Sinco manifold t3 flange

Turbosmart 50mm external waste gate

Planning on

Gtx3076r

Id1000 injectors

3 inch exhaust.

Haltech Elite

I know downgrading the cams will negate the big head work but the application for the engine has changed from a drift car to a 4wd. Any opinions would be appreciated, I will put up a build topic in the future

Cheers in advance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459024-rb30det-neo/
Share on other sites

Ditch the big throttle body and run a standard one. Will give a less sudden response from closed throttle.

Run a bigger exhaust. 3.5 inch will be enough. Under a 4wd you should have plenty of room to play with.

Unless you plan on running a 1.06 turbine housing on the GTX3076, consider a turbo spec that has better match of flow between hotside and coldside. Borg Warner have some pretty good offerings and prices are very good depending on what you choose. Not physically small units, but if it's sitting in a 4wd engine bay then space isn't likely a concern.

What's the advice/recommendation from Lewis about cam spec and turbo for this application?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459024-rb30det-neo/#findComment-7588186
Share on other sites

Dale, was originally tossing up between gtx3076 with 1.06 or gtx3582 with .82 but opted for the smaller turbo.

I will have a look at the borg warner series though, and with the exhaust size I didn't want to run the 3.5 because I didn't want it to be too loud and don't think its necessary for my goal, which is not outright horsepower but good torque throught the rev range

This motor was obviously designed for a bigger turbo and with current cams was meant to have a massive midrange and top end torque

Because the application has changed I feel as though I don't want to waste the potential of the motor but at the same time be usable as a fun 4wd, the only thing that's stopping me from going all out because I want to make it street legal and engineered.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459024-rb30det-neo/#findComment-7588197
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I can't understand why I don't here more discussion on this forum about twin scroll setups. If you're going the GTX3076R get it with the 1.04 Twin Scroll rear housing and get a PROPER split pulse manifold with duel wastegates etc.

I did this on my FJ20 and it runs a GT3071R with the 0.78 rear split pulse and manifold. Makes 21psi at 3500rpm and peak torque just after that yet pulls hard to make around 270rwkw. The engine is a midrange animal.

I can only imagine on the twin cam RB30 with a relatively small turbo (GTX3076R with 1.04 split pulse) You'd probably have full boost before 3000rpm and still make 320rwkw. That to me sounds like the ideal street motor. The added benefit of the proper split pulse manifolds is the improved volumetric efficiency which may negate the need for aftermarket cams at that power level all together.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459024-rb30det-neo/#findComment-7610814
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...