Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've been talking with the owner about this but I'm in two minds about it. It ticks a lot of boxes (gun metal, dark interior, modded) but there's a few things I'm not sure about.

Here's the details from the ad.

2001 model, (comes with dark interior)

144,XXXkm's (Genuine Odo...)

Exterior: Full custom gunmetal respray Car is immaculate.

Wheels/Suspension: New Nitto Invo's New RDA Rotors with new New Project Mu HC800 pads Genuine Rays Engineering Volk TE37 Superlap's 19x9.5 Nismo Type S suspension front and rear. Exhaust: HKS Super Silent 3" Venom Cat HPI dump pipes Blitz front pipes

Engine/drivetrain mods: Nismo Super Coppermix Clutch. Garrett Gt2860-5 turbo's Splitfire Coilpacks Haltech Platinum Pro ECU. Tomei Poncams 800cc Sard injectors Walbro 400LPH intank pump Apexi/HKS full piping kit and pods Genuine HKS type R intercooler.

interior: Stock, clean interior, no extra guages or stuff like that.

A final Note: First Australian Owner, Imported in 2011 as a completely stock vehicle. Car is running a good street tune at the moment, just had a service. Owned her for 4 years, time to say goodbye :(. Very reluctant sale.

After talking to the owner, who is very helpful and seems quite honest and genuine. A few things stand out.

- I'm in two minds about the respray, it looks like a quality job (I'll fly up to inspect the car myself if it passes a preliminary check over by my dad who is closer to the car). I love the colour but wonder what's being hidden. He notes he painted it as the black paint was faded in a few spots and that he loves gunmetal.

- The boot lock does not match the key which implies tome it's had a boot lid replaced - maybe from a hit. The seller mentioned that himself and said the panel beater could find no trace of a hit as the seller had this same concern.

- High k's, he notes it has excellent compression (Godzilla Motorsport) and is making a safe 340awkw which is a little low for -5's but is only running 98 octane, I'm not just thinking about the engine though (diffs/box/bushes etc). I'm aware that lots of GT-R's receive cluster swaps and have much higher K's than advertised, he claims this is the original cluster. The car can possibly also come with a fully prepped RB30 short block that he has sitting ready. He said he's welcome for me to have the car professionally inspected and also offered a hoist for when my dad comes by,

- Interior blemishes. The seats look good but the marks on the cluster surround I'm not sure I can clean off. Also the marks on the passenger side rear arm rest and the carbon fibre wrap on the coin cover and near the AC controls. He said he's removing this and cleaning up any residue.

- In terms of pros, he has a bunch of spares that will come with the car. Turbos, piping, powerFC, 2 spare rims (just Rota's) and possibly that RB30 (which I might sell as the work involved is still fairly substantial, RB28 might be easier). Basically anything he has modified he has kept the stock version of (except the cams). There's quite a few dollars in bits there, especially if I can get that RB30 as well.

- I love the colour/wheel combo and while it's a respray it's also a one off unique colour which makes it a little special. Not sure about those wheels in matte, I assume I could put a clear coat over them for a gloss look, though the offset looks a little tame on them also.

- There's nothing else on the market like this at present so I'd have to import otherwise.

The car will be a once a month kind of drive and the occassional track day (hence concern around K's). I would add a vspec 2 naca duct and rear diffuser also as the car is not a v-spec. I'll also add the exhaust temp and intake sensors and add those to the MFD via the diag mode as described on here.

He's coming back to me with full details on the short motor but gave me this rundown - cometic head gasket all quality brand new ARP fasteners, big end bolts and head studs etc.

The engine and crank have been machined and balanced, the con-rods are spool items and the pistons are Carrillo's. all the big end bearings and girdle bearings are ACL race bearings. Built for 9:1 and e85.

The seller himself seems very friendly, helpful and more than happy to answer my questions, show me photos and is very specific about showing me any flaws etc.

Thoughts?

Oh and don't go trying to buy it... I've got dibs on it.

post-23873-0-22149300-1441665863_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-87951000-1441665863_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-69960200-1441665864_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-21643800-1441665865_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-78003700-1441665865_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-25608700-1441665866_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-73081200-1441665866_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-23266300-1441665867_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-40007100-1441665869_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-84686300-1441665871_thumb.jpg

post-23873-0-84463500-1441665741_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-40032100-1441665742_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-73633500-1441665742_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-23744300-1441665743_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-73353000-1441665743_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-96359000-1441665745_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-96817100-1441665747_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-96606000-1441665749_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-00126700-1441665752_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-98090500-1441665753_thumb.jpg

post-23873-0-68121900-1441665984_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-24303000-1441665986_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-69904600-1441665987_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-69595400-1441665988_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-72432500-1441665989_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-32076000-1441665991_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-17996800-1441665992_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-26945700-1441665993_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-49036400-1441665994_thumb.jpgpost-23873-0-46831200-1441665995_thumb.jpg
Edited by ActionDan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459533-thoughts-on-this-r34-gt-r/
Share on other sites

I haven't even asked for the VIN yet, what's a JOC?

He strikes me that way, he was well aware of any problem I through at him, such as "How's the MFD?" "Its been replaced as I couldn't handle the crazing on the screen".

He gave me a full run down of how to fit the RB30, some issues with RB26 alternators, why he had swapped to RB30, discussion around R34 CAS etc etc.

Edited by ActionDan

How does that work/how do I pursue it?

And thank you.

EDIT: If it's this then that's money well spent.

http://www.japaneseodometercheck.com/purchase.html

Edited by ActionDan

My plan is to have my dad take a look (he's got an excellent eye and plenty of mechanical knowledge) as I'll need to fly up to see it.

If my dad gives it the OK I'll have a workshop professional inspect/comp test.

If that's OK I'll fly up for a final inspection/drive and leave a deposit.

I'm awaiting the VIN as we speak and will do the JOC.

Are people not concerned about the respray or the high k's?

Edited by ActionDan

http://www.japanesehistorycheck.com/

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Japanese-History-Check/557835010998928

These guys tend to dig a bit deeper, found some rather dodgy cars (e.g. re-registered twice in Japan to wipe the previous two recorded km).

RE: body, bit hard unless you really know what you're looking for. E.g. a relo of mine is a spray painter, he can tell straight away if a car has been hit, whether the respray was good, etc.

Mileage seems fine, remember they're 15 years old now.

I thought this too, but I question how long the motor will live with a factory head gasket and bottom end at that power.

Pulling the head on my track car was a pain as it was without 2 mote cylinders and an extra turbo to consider.

I thought it was built...

He's coming back to me with full details on the short motor but gave me this rundown - cometic head gasket all quality brand new ARP fasteners, big end bolts and head studs etc.

The engine and crank have been machined and balanced, the con-rods are spool items and the pistons are Carrillo's. all the big end bearings and girdle bearings are ACL race bearings. Built for 9:1 and e85.

I'm not sure I follow what you mean.

The current motor in the car is the factory 26. He has an assembled RB30 short motor and is coming back to me with receipts for all the work done so I have a full run down of the specs.

Did I miss something?

Get it to a workshop to professionally inspect, and look yourself if your Dad is happy with it. Need to look at the under body to be satisfied there is no damage or bad rust issues that are being hidden. Do the history check as some dodgy stuff could of happened when importing and usually it is picked up from the transition between Japan and Australia when the km's or stuff doesn't match. 144k km seems reasonable though.

Seems legit and like a good deal but you want to be absolutely positive before buying a 60k+ plus car at least and a flight down to inspect can't hurt that much compared to being disappointed by hidden issues you didn't inspect. All the best with it.

I'm also particularly fussy about the minor marks and scratches etc but over time I've just 50% forgotten about them and realised it's not a museum piece I'm keeping so I'm no longer thinking about that clip that's missing or what not.

Dont get me wrong, it's the exact mindset you'd want when buying.

As for the boot lock, can you get a new one barrell matched to the existing key?

Looks rather tastefully modded and I love the standard interior/engine bay. As for the respray and high Kms, it'll be in fresher condition than any other comparison and seeing the vehicles condition (underside, engine, interior wear etc) wil give you a good indication over the kms on the cluster.

Apart from a reluctant sale, has the owner indicated why he's letting it go when he's half way through a rb30 bottom end?

When was the last major service? good to know if you're up for one given the kms.

Cluster surround marks could have been gauges? hard to see when driving!

Yeah agree with above poster, do all the checks you can, and get the right people to see it as that money is money well spent.

Call up the workshop that regularly services the car for a chat too, cheap phone calls.

I'm not sure about the boot lock, he said the interior release works fine, but my thought would be you'd need an all new lock/key set to have them matching.

He has a hoist and encouraged us to inspect on that to see how clean it is underneath.

He's clearing out all his toys that sit unused he said, is selling a number of other things also.

Cheers

Yeah had a quick look around SAU, you'll need a new boot lock and have it rekeyed/matched to the rest of the car, pretty much what you said.

Hopefully he's kept lots of the paperwork, invoices etc always good to know the history if possible.

Is it running around 20lb to make that 340kw on the -5s?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...