Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I'm trying to determine what the wires off my speed sensor are. I've got a Black wire with a White stripe, and a Grey wire with a Red stripe. They both go through to the back of the speedo cluster and I'm really trying to figure out which one to tap into to get my speedo corrector working.

Also, is there anywhere to get a wiring diagram for a S1 C34 Stagea?

Cheers,

- Lance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/459603-c34-speed-sensor/
Share on other sites

If you have just two wires to worry about just cut one and hook it up and if that doesn't work cut the other. Can you take a pic of the back of the cluster and post it up or PM it to me?

I have a copy of the service manual but its in Japanese. I have copies of 5 pages relating to the speedo and if you PM me your address I'll post them to you (I am too tired to scan them just now).

I fitted one of those correctors to me c34 as well (inaccurate speedos bug me), I just did it behind the dash...sorry, I didn't take pics.

But on the rear of the dash it does mark which track is the speed in, which you can trace to the plug and then intercept the wire in the loom.

I've tried the process of elimination Bob, but neither seem to bring any joy.... Which seems weird. I think I'm having issues with the actual module now (even though I purchased a second one just to make sure it wasn't that)

post-106462-0-99588600-1442135669_thumb.jpg

Duncan, the plan is to mount it behind the cluster and splice it into the loom there. I don't suppose you remember if there was anything funny about setting it up initially?

Cheers,

- Lance

well actually I do remember something funny, but didn't mention because I think it was a red herring. And it was about 10 years ago. Basically I remember I reset it multiple times and it didn't flash the way it was meant to. But because I don't remember anything about the details, and I never knew what the issue is I don't think that helps :blink:

I've tried the process of elimination Bob, but neither seem to bring any joy.... Which seems weird. I think I'm having issues with the actual module now (even though I purchased a second one just to make sure it wasn't that)

attachicon.gifIMG_1687.JPG

Duncan, the plan is to mount it behind the cluster and splice it into the loom there. I don't suppose you remember if there was anything funny about setting it up initially?

Cheers,

- Lance

Lance it seems to me that interrupting the circuit at the screw on the back of the speedo is still the best way. I am sure you have worked out how the spacer and tabbed washer will achieve that and you just have to work out which screw. If you look on the pic of the GTR cluster (which is quite different - especially without all the auto lights) you can see some Japanese characters next to the speedo signal and I wonder if you can see those same characters on your cluster (the photo is not clear enough for me to read).

Good to know that it's not just me having a problem setting it up, Duncan. I've emailed Jaycar in the hope that someone will know what's happening and steer me in the right direction.

I've pored over the back of that speedo, Bob, and I cannot find those same characters on the back of my speedo. I've even painstakingly traced the track from the pin, all the way through and no where does it have a screw intercepting it.

Cheers,

- Lance

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...