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Interior Facia Led Diy

Velict

By Velict,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

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Velict Enthusiast

Velict

Posted
Posted

I'll give you guys the quick run down. But actually figuring it out is up to your own abilities. I assume if you own a gtr, you should know how to do some sort of maintenance, disassembly, or repair.

List of items:
Solder Station
3mm 5000 - 20,000 mCD LED at 30 degree - 45 degree focus beam (Green, orange, red, white, cool white)
Know your LED specs! Forward Voltage, Forward Current, Supply Voltage

Any of these LEDS are good: http://www.mouser.com/.../Standard-LEDs.../_/N-b1bc8...

Next is your resistor.

Below is a resistor calculator
https://www.digikey.com/.../conversion-calculator-led...

For instance, I used a 3.2v LED, 20mA, and we know that cars use 12v. So I needed a ~440 Ohms resistor .176 watt. It's safe to go with 500mW.

The best resistors are metal film. They reduce noise (LED Flicker), better tolerances for voltage spikes, and higher heat handling. These are the resistors I used. REMEMBER TO USE YOUR RESISTOR CALCULATOR!!

Good choices here (470 ohm 500mW):http://www.mouser.com/ProductD.../Vishay/CMF55470R00FKR6/...

On each specific switch, as shown in the video here on this forum, there are rubber 'bulb condoms' that sit inside the switch. They're ass, take em, shit on them, throw them away.

Remove the switches from your facia after you've taken it out. You'll have to unscrew them. Makes it easier, and there is a reason for this.

Hide your empty facia somewhere. You won't need it for now.

Plug your removed switches into your harnesses. Turn on your running lights. Get your red or some colored paint pen.

Take a spare LED that's been wired with your resistor, and touch negative or positive to your contacts and do some guess work on the polarity. Don't short your LED out unsure emoticon Once you've found the correct polarity direct, mark your hot wire with your pen

After you got the marks, I mean it's basic soldering. Red to Pos terminal, Black to negative terminal.

It'll take some fenaggling to get the LED into the hole, but you'll just have to be patient. Use some epoxy or RTV to glue the led in place. This is to hold the LED in the correct position, or it'll bounce all over the place because it ain't got a condom.

For the window switch. It's just clipped into the door panel. Pry it out gently. It's difficult to find the location of the clips so you don't break them. Took me a bit.

There will be a yellow cover on the back of the main window switches. Take mini screw drivers and pry off the clips. Once you get it, you'll see a circuit board with a T3 socket. I decided to just solder in an led (after testing my polarity using the same method above). Take down with epoxy and good to go.

Before your decide to snap everything back together and start driving, test out your switches to make sure they even work. Also, you can test the illumination.

If you're feeling froggy, this is the perfect time to completely disassemble your switches and clean / lubricate them. I got rid of some electrical gremlins when I did this. I also flowed solder on the circuit board.

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Standard LEDs - Through Hole are available at Mouser Electronics. Mouser offers inventory, pricing, & datasheets for Standard LEDs - Through Hole.
MOUSER.COM
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