Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

M11 standard i'm pretty sure (from ARP), no idea on the pitch though. I had to buy one for the VQ as they run the same M11 thread on the head bolts.

Make sure you get a bottoming tap.

To be more exact its actually M11 X 1.5 (pitch) for RB25's and RB30's.

RB26's are M12 X 1.5 pitch.

Reason i know is because im about to convert a RB30 block to RB26 head bolt sizes tomorrow for fun.

Make sure you get the bottoming out tap so yo can reach the end of the threaded hole if cleaning threads, the next one back is the plug tap and will be short 3-5 turns from the bottom, the starter tap will be 5-8 turns short.

Im waiting on 12mm CA625+ studs to arrive and a i have a set of 11mm studs but the box is sealed and i dont want to open it as im selling them.

A stock RB26 head bolt with washer fitted is 99.91mm long from under the washer head to the very end of the bolt including the threaded section that enters the block.

Remove the washer and from under the bolt head to the end of the threads its 102.72 mm.

Washer is 3.10mm thick exactly. (so im a few 0.00mm out somewhere)

Threaded section entering the block from the lengths above is around 27.5mm.

From there you will just need to add what you need to protrude out of the head to get the nut full on when working out stud lengths.

Do you have the length Pete? I want to compare to the VQ bolts I have here. (Not that I really want to go cutting L19's down, but I will if I have to. :P)

I was just down at Barrys and he gave me a set of RB26 ARP2000 stud kit to measure up as im still waiting for my studs to arrive.

Complete length of the whole stud is 124.37mm end to end.

Threaded section that enters the block is 23mm

74.27mm un-threaded shaft length.

Threaded section that nuts go on is 27.1mm.

So 23mm into block, 74.27mm shaft length, 27.1mm threaded for nuts and washer=124.37mm total length.

Hope that helps you. :)

The VQ bolt is 120mm from under the washer to the tip of the thread, so the length would be perfect, but it has an M11 x 1.25 pitch, so if the RB25/30 is 1.5mm pitch that won't work unfortunately.

Are you sure its 1.25 pitch into the block? It would provide real torque when tightening down.

Whats the final torque on them? A lot less than 100ft/lb?

ARP's studs for 25's and 26's are 1.5 pitch into the block but (i think) 1.25 on the heads nut face end. (Much finer)

Yep, I was measuring the stock VQ25det head bolts, so it's the thread into the block. I can't remember the nm figures, but 76nm stock and 96nm for the L19's is stuck in my head for some reason, unless it was actually ft/lb figures.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah that is not actually a lot. Just painting my GTR frontend and the little bits to make sideskirts/nismo flare pieces work correctly/fit on the sedan/mount up correctly came to about $7000. Is it a lot? Sure. None of this is economical. Economy would be shelling the car and buying a 2010 Corolla to commute in. The perspective of all of this is different.
    • I have the 2025 build re003s’ on my 06 XT Forester Turbo and I quite rate them for street wet and dry
    • I don't see any issues here. I've been saying all along this is a big job, the price reflects that.  When the car comes back perfect I'm sure it will feel like money well spent. 
    • Remember, take original quote. Double it. Then add a bit more. It's how any project goes.
    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
×
×
  • Create New...