Jump to content
SAU Community

H1 Led Headlights

Pauly The R33

By Pauly The R33,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...
ScottieRAWRR Newbie

ScottieRAWRR

Posted
Posted

Hate replying to an old Thread, But i found limited resources on the matter. so ill just leave this here for future reference.

I have just put leds in my 33. and long story short, they are no good.

although very bright, the light scatters much to quickly without the aid of a projector, so basically the lights hurt your eyes to look at but dont illuminate much of the road.

also making to h1 clip fit around the cooling fans on the back of most leds was a nightmare, and the cap on the rear of the headlight housing wont fit them either,

puting standard bulbs back in tomorrow.

 

cheers

GH05T Grand Master

GH05T

Posted
Posted (edited)

i have had them in my r32 gtr for years, i love them, 
set up properly they work very well, they seem to get allot of keyboard hate but when their setup properly they work very well with no "blinding" bullshit.

 

the reason i went for LEDs is because i dont like the shitty blue tinge light of HIDs and their are NO good options for ordinary bulbs. their just rubbish for R32s.

i would like to go retro fitted HIDs but i have N1 lights so not really an option and quite expensive.

 

Edited by GH05T
R.3.2.G.T.R Grand Master

R.3.2.G.T.R

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, GH05T said:

i have had them in my r32 gtr for years, i love them, 
set up properly they work very well, they seem to get allot of keyboard hate but when their setup properly they work very well with no "blinding" bullshit.

 

the reason i went for LEDs is because i dont like the shitty blue tinge light of HIDs and their are NO good options for ordinary bulbs. their just rubbish for R32s.

i would like to go retro fitted HIDs but i have N1 lights so not really an option and quite expensive.

 

interesting, I have N1 lights as well and was recently looking at LED lights to improve the current setup

any particular brand you used or ebay one? got any comparison pics or current pic of the setup?

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

And your pictures prove your lights have heaps of glare and foreground  :4_joy:

Yes, there are H4 LED bulbs that try to mimic the halogen output, even Philips has one (not legal, 5,000 hrs rated lifespan and very expensive). But this thread is about H1. Adjustable ones are obviously good to get the best out of them, but at the end of the day you're trying to shove a different set of optics into something that wasn't designed to handle them.

https://images.philips.com/is/image/PhilipsConsumer/12953BWX2-APP-global-001?$jpglarge$&hei=700

 

GH05T Grand Master

GH05T

Posted
Posted (edited)

thats HighBeam your looking at from a phone camera, hey im not here to sell a product.

if i had the choice of standard globes vs led i would defiantly prefer to actually see. the optics designed in the 80s are not my cup of tea so yeah im defiantly looking to retrofit something better. and i would recommend anyone with projectors look at retrofitting the whole unit. why stick with very very poor light output?

H1 vs H4 is more to do with the connections, the question as i read it is more to do with the LED system vs halogen.

but hey man, if you dont want to use them im not gonna have a go at you, im just putting forward my experience with the options asked about.

 

Edited by GH05T
niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted
17 hours ago, GH05T said:

thats HighBeam your looking at from a phone camera, hey im not here to sell a product.

 

No point comparing halogen low beam to LED high beam then aye, why not post both or swap one and leave one halogen :rolleyes:
Oh and look up foreground lighting and how it affects your vision while driving. And there are other factors that affect output, e.g. hazed lenses, which R33s tend to have. Clear them up and throw in some Osram NBU/Narva Blue Plus bulb and then save up for a retrofit.

If LEDs did work, I'd happily recommend them, but unfortunately they are not an upgrade. And yes the R32 projectors are atrocious. This thread is talking about R33 reflectors though, which don't have a cutoff shield to reduce glare.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...