Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...

Hate replying to an old Thread, But i found limited resources on the matter. so ill just leave this here for future reference.

I have just put leds in my 33. and long story short, they are no good.

although very bright, the light scatters much to quickly without the aid of a projector, so basically the lights hurt your eyes to look at but dont illuminate much of the road.

also making to h1 clip fit around the cooling fans on the back of most leds was a nightmare, and the cap on the rear of the headlight housing wont fit them either,

puting standard bulbs back in tomorrow.

 

cheers

i have had them in my r32 gtr for years, i love them, 
set up properly they work very well, they seem to get allot of keyboard hate but when their setup properly they work very well with no "blinding" bullshit.

 

the reason i went for LEDs is because i dont like the shitty blue tinge light of HIDs and their are NO good options for ordinary bulbs. their just rubbish for R32s.

i would like to go retro fitted HIDs but i have N1 lights so not really an option and quite expensive.

 

Edited by GH05T
3 hours ago, GH05T said:

i have had them in my r32 gtr for years, i love them, 
set up properly they work very well, they seem to get allot of keyboard hate but when their setup properly they work very well with no "blinding" bullshit.

 

the reason i went for LEDs is because i dont like the shitty blue tinge light of HIDs and their are NO good options for ordinary bulbs. their just rubbish for R32s.

i would like to go retro fitted HIDs but i have N1 lights so not really an option and quite expensive.

 

interesting, I have N1 lights as well and was recently looking at LED lights to improve the current setup

any particular brand you used or ebay one? got any comparison pics or current pic of the setup?

And your pictures prove your lights have heaps of glare and foreground  :4_joy:

Yes, there are H4 LED bulbs that try to mimic the halogen output, even Philips has one (not legal, 5,000 hrs rated lifespan and very expensive). But this thread is about H1. Adjustable ones are obviously good to get the best out of them, but at the end of the day you're trying to shove a different set of optics into something that wasn't designed to handle them.

https://images.philips.com/is/image/PhilipsConsumer/12953BWX2-APP-global-001?$jpglarge$&hei=700

 

thats HighBeam your looking at from a phone camera, hey im not here to sell a product.

if i had the choice of standard globes vs led i would defiantly prefer to actually see. the optics designed in the 80s are not my cup of tea so yeah im defiantly looking to retrofit something better. and i would recommend anyone with projectors look at retrofitting the whole unit. why stick with very very poor light output?

H1 vs H4 is more to do with the connections, the question as i read it is more to do with the LED system vs halogen.

but hey man, if you dont want to use them im not gonna have a go at you, im just putting forward my experience with the options asked about.

 

Edited by GH05T
17 hours ago, GH05T said:

thats HighBeam your looking at from a phone camera, hey im not here to sell a product.

 

No point comparing halogen low beam to LED high beam then aye, why not post both or swap one and leave one halogen :rolleyes:
Oh and look up foreground lighting and how it affects your vision while driving. And there are other factors that affect output, e.g. hazed lenses, which R33s tend to have. Clear them up and throw in some Osram NBU/Narva Blue Plus bulb and then save up for a retrofit.

If LEDs did work, I'd happily recommend them, but unfortunately they are not an upgrade. And yes the R32 projectors are atrocious. This thread is talking about R33 reflectors though, which don't have a cutoff shield to reduce glare.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...