Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi chaps,

It seems whenever I take my car to the local track (Barbagallo), I experience the following:

  • fuel surge when tank is approx <60% full
  • high fuel consumption - roughly 6 laps will consume 1/4 of the tank

Additionally, when at the tuners, they said that the injectors are maxed out; they're not completely sure what the reason is. Initially it was believed to be a lazy pump, however after swapping that out, it seems to still be the same.

My fuel setup (and other possibly pertinent information) is as follows

  • R34 GT-Four (not sure if they run a different style fuel tank, or smaller fuel hosing, given it used to be an N/A car from factory)
  • RB26DETT
  • Approx 515hp on a hub dyno, which is usually reading a bit higher than roller dynos
  • Running E85
  • Deatschwerks 1200cc injectors
  • Walbro 460lph intank fuel pump
  • Standard fuel rail and FPR
  • Unsure of fuel filter, I don't think it's anything fancy, but has been changed a couple of times since switching to E85

Since swapping fuel pumps, not completely sure if the surging is still present, as I kept the fuel topped up each time I went out; however the workshop said the previous pump was secured well, and was low down, so there was no reason for it to surge previously.

I am considering putting in a fuel surge tank, -10 micron filter, new fuel rail and an adjustable FPR to try and fix all the above items, however just wanted to see if someone has any ideas before I embark down this road.

The other strange thing is that I know another car which is exactly the same fuel pump and injectors as me, however is sitting at 100hp more with breathing room on the injectors, and another car which has same injectors (different fuel pump), but is over 700hp

Thanks!

You should have heaps of fuel for that power level. Fuel rail and FPR "should " be up to it. Have you tested the fuel pressure? Maybe you have struck a dud pump. Have you wired the pump for full battery voltage? Have you seen the afr chart? Is it possible that it is a problem with the tune?

Hey guys, thanks for that!

I don't have any fuel pressure gauges on it, that's something the tuner did and said they had maxed out

Pump is wired up for full voltage, the AFRs were previously a bit on the lean end up top, which has now been rectified so that they're "safe", but I don't have a copy of it sorry ...

The tuner is very good, I don't think there's any issue on that front

Sorry for the noob question, but I if I had a fuel pressure gauge on it, and for example the fuel filter is blocked, that would then be able to tell me that the filter is blocked and the injectors are over-working/hitting max duty-cycle, due to the reduced fuel flow (given by the pressure)?

My R34 has had issues with fuel filters before. Changed to an Earls and changed that when it became blocked, but I noticed this by the car running lean under power, which coincidentally was about the same amount of power you have :P

All it took for me was to run one tank of 98 and switching back to E85 to see my filter full of stuff. Pretty much want to change it any time I do an oil change now, I would lose my mind if I didn't have a wideband that will cut the engine if the event of a lean condition as I'm super paranoid about fuel filters now.

those are 1000cc with normal rail pressures, those DW are a 4 or 5 bar base 1200cc rating.

your power is around 390rwkw and is around right for getting close to max. (390-420)

It's interesting how DW and other brands feel the need to rate injectors at higher pressure to make them sound larger than they are.

My 1000's are actually 5000cc at 100 bar rail pressure. ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...