Jump to content
SAU Community

Apexi Fc D-jetro First Tune!

ReeceGTS-T

By ReeceGTS-T,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

ReeceGTS-T Collaborator

ReeceGTS-T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i do agree with you with some points made gtsboy but im not worried about being defected by police over a turbo timer, even the first mod to your car is consinded a defect (exhaust, pod) lets be real here we have a shit load more obvious things that are defectable. a turbo timer is more of a convience then anything and almost always on every import even through compliance will be left on, (also one of the first ricers mod)

they also are handy these days displaying more ecu sensors such as volts, boost pressure, etc.

yeah damage to the engine may not be noticable and the turbo timer may be just a gimic but im always quiet firm on letting the car warm right up to operating temp and also cooling it down to idle temp. 90 seconds will suit most applications if you have to wait longer for cooling your temps are getting to high and maybe time to look into a oil cooler.

ReeceGTS-T Collaborator

ReeceGTS-T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

speaking about coming flat out into your driveway, has anyone had any real time experience with d jetro's and where the map pressure line should be tee'd off from or is it worth drilling into the inlet manifold itself?

also; going to install my tomei fuel pump next weekend, will this be okay on my tame set up (stock ecu) up untill the tune with it done with the rewire upgrade? (straight to battery).

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

speaking about coming flat out into your driveway, has anyone had any real time experience with d jetro's and where the map pressure line should be tee'd off from or is it worth drilling into the inlet manifold itself?

also; going to install my tomei fuel pump next weekend, will this be okay on my tame set up (stock ecu) up untill the tune with it done with the rewire upgrade? (straight to battery).

Check on the UK forum. I believe there is a pretty in depth thread about this. Conclusion was drill the runners out in 3 and 4. Nothing really worked 100% otherwise.
kingtube69 Experienced

kingtube69

Posted
Posted

speaking about coming flat out into your driveway, has anyone had any real time experience with d jetro's and where the map pressure line should be tee'd off from or is it worth drilling into the inlet manifold itself?

also; going to install my tomei fuel pump next weekend, will this be okay on my tame set up (stock ecu) up untill the tune with it done with the rewire upgrade? (straight to battery).

JEM teed my MAP into the FPR line - Guess it works and is tried and tested.

ReeceGTS-T Collaborator

ReeceGTS-T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thinking of having a line from the barb coming off the intake manifold on runner 6 for the stock gauge map pressure sensor so it gets 100% pressure to the apexi/denso sensor and teeing off a different line for the stock sensor as it is not as important.

for my air intake sensor i was just having a look at the manifold and there is no room on the underside behind the throttle body so i was thinking maybe on the underside of the stock crossover pipe (L pipe) as it is also said to use intercooler piping and this pipe is a lot thicker and less prone to heat soak.

going to install the pfc myself, look out!

if your reading please send through your thoughts as i will be attempting on the weekend and tips and tricks would be helpful!

also am aware of the half hour idle learn

- 10 mins start and idle

- next 10 mins add air conditioner

- next 10 mins add demisters

thanks.

ReeceGTS-T Collaborator

ReeceGTS-T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

just had a thought, the cross over pipe is still ralatively close to the head of the engine and almost over the exhaust mani/turbo, might just make a bung into the black stock intercooler pipe near the induction filter. after all it's just a sensor that requires temp at it's final state (temp) before entering the chamber's.... a heat soaked sensor is probably not affected but it is a concern as made by a few forums/sites i have been over.

even apexi suggest intake manifold is where it should be placed, the rb26 has one in the intake mani...

surely nissan and apexi know a touch more!

zoomzoom Mentor

zoomzoom

Posted
Posted

I installed my air intake temp sensor on the rear of the crossover pipe just before the throttle body. There is a section which can be filed flat and then drilled and tapped. Its a very clean install. I was using a standard bosch? temp sensor.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

To be useful for actual ECU control/tuning the air temp sensor must have a light element that reacts quickly. The stock type found in the plenum of RB26s is NOT that type and it is not useful. In fact the Nissan ECU doesn't really use it for that purpose at all.

As to where you put it.....it hardly matters whether it is in the cross-over or the plenum. It will actually be a little better just before the TB in the crossover because all the airflow will be going past it, increasing the heat transfer rate too and from it and making it respond faster.

If it is in the air flow, and is small and light, it won't "heat soak", unless the air in the pipe is heat soaked. In which case it will be reading the air temp which is what you want anyway.

ReeceGTS-T Collaborator

ReeceGTS-T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah the kit includes a mazda sensor that is quick reacting so that all seems fine and i'd rather go into one of the pipes as they would be more easily to replace if something goes wrong! looks like i will follow your path zoomzoom, was your tuner happy with the placement of it?

had a talk to nengun today they said the power fc is a er34 pfc through and through not even a rb26 reflashed model so thats a bit warming but still won't be data init'ing haha.

ReeceGTS-T Collaborator

ReeceGTS-T

Posted
  • Author
Posted

is anyone able to give me injector corrections and latency for my new 570cc injectors?

this is what i have come up with.

380(stock neo)/570 = .6666.... × 100 = 66/67% injector correction.

0.890ms @ 13.8v latency. (i have been sent this numbers from where i purchased as a rough guess)

i have to travel roughly 400km to get a tune and i'm aware no positive pressure or load on the engine to prevent damage due to a.f.r's.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • r32-25t
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By r32-25t · Posted

      The prices I’ve heard aren’t that bad 
    • GTSBoy
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Oh, I also meant to say that it is possible to use a venting BOV and restrict its outlet down so that it does vent enough to prevent the sututu, but vents slowly enough that the AFM doesn't see all the air at once and makes it easier to avoid stalling.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'll go talk to my bank manager. Either that or my nearest western Sydney drug baron.
    • GTSBoy
      Question about BoV on RB25DET NEO

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Driveability will be about the same with either externally venting BOV, or no BOV at all. Perhaps worse one way than the other, with me thinking that the definitely more flow going through the AFM through a venting BOV more likely to cause rich stalls than the perhaps more flow that the AFM might read on reversion. There is no such thing as "turbo damage" from not having a BOV at stock, or even quite a lot higher than stock, power levels. You need a big turbo with a lot of mass spinning hard getting a horrible slowdown from a slammed shut throttle before there is anything like the shaft loads required to damage things. Not an issue on small turbos. The ONLY 2 reasons that Nissan put a recirc valve onto the RB were: It is a bypass valve. It is open when under vacuum. When not on boost, it bypasses intake air forward around the compressor, which unloads the compressor, allowing the turbine to sping more freely, making the whole lot a bit more efficient when just puddling around. Throttle response should also be faster via the shorter, smaller diameter BOV pipe (when in NA, ie before the BOV closes and boost is building) which is nicer for driveability. Emissions. The reversion causes CO pulses. Eliminate the reversion (or at least, keep it away from the AFM) and you don't get that. The stalling/driveability aspect could have been tuned around, as shown one example of by dose above, if Nissan hadn't put a recirc valve on. Many many turbo engines before the RB had no BOV. They did not stall. See the RB30 turbo as an example. Nistune is definitely better than just stock ECU. It allows you to access and change things that are not excellent on the stock setup, and allows you to do mods like put decent injectors in, relocate the AFM, put a bigger turbo or even cams, etc, on, change to coil swith completely different swell needs, etc etc. All the things that you might need or want to do 25 years after the car was new. Aftermarket replacement ECU is obviously better again, because it gives you even more freedom from the constraints of the stock ECU. I won't be needing to go any further than Nistune though, for the new turbo in the 250ish rwkW region I'm going to, with big injectors, and most other things being stockish.
    • r32-25t
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By r32-25t · Posted

      Lucky the prp block is supposed to be released next weekend 
×
×
  • Create New...