Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

He had the export certificate

This can be easily fudged unfortunately, but you have a better chance it's genuine than most.

Maintenance as always is to drop all fluids on arrival, and change all filters.

  • Like 1

100k seems more legit compared to some being offered for sale around the country.

I've been to see about 4 here in Syd, and even with export certificates you can tell the k's aren't legitimate.

I saw one with a certificate, 2008 model, exp cert had last 2 reg checks in japan, last one was 2 years ago and the car today had only 10000 more k's.

This car had less than 60ks on the clock, but the seatbelt wouldn't retract easily by itself.

Its not a big thing, but I've had Nissans with close to 200ks and no issue with the belts.

Its little things like this that give it away for me.

Giving myself another month or so to find one locally, otherwise will be importing.

As for price, depends on the overall condition. Have been following the auctions for a while, and an 08 manual can still go for anywhere between $23k to $33k landed and complied depending on the condition. Autos for a type S seem to be sitting around low $20k's for a decent one.

For what it's worth, it's not entirely impossible. Mine is a 2009 model, had 22,000km on the clock when I imported it beginning of 2012 and I'm only up to 37,846km after owning it for three years.

Just depends on the use it gets.

  • Like 1

Decided not to go with the black one after seeing a review about the importer. It was horrible. Also talk to a mate who used to be import cars who had dealing with this importer who also do compliance. According to my mate this guy is the go to man if need to wind back the clock.

Put a deposit on a 09 S 7 speed auto. Fresh import with dereg papers and all other docs. 20 inch Rays and blitz coilvers with 82000km on it. I'm happy

  • Like 2

Keeping in mind that the dereg papers are issued by Japanese authorities it would be too fiddly trying to forge them for sake of $20K car. Unless the Jap owner had been winding down the clock on the regular basis before every mileage check.

It's all about the freshly imported cars. Ones they've been in Ozz for a while you can't trust anyone.

Keeping in mind that the dereg papers are issued by Japanese authorities it would be too fiddly trying to forge them for sake of $20K car. Unless the Jap owner had been winding down the clock on the regular basis before every mileage check. It's all about the freshly imported cars. Ones they've been in Ozz for a while you can't trust anyone.

I've read something like:

- Dereg the car first

- Do whatever dirty tricks

- Re-reg the car

- Dereg again, and use this "latest" cert as proof

Therefore it is always best to compare both the auction paper with dereg certificate and (if you can) back track the records for one year or two

Hope someone can verify this?

Put a deposit on a 09 S 7 speed auto. Fresh import with dereg papers and all other docs. 20 inch Rays and blitz coilvers with 82000km on it. I'm happy

Pics or it didn't happen. :glare:

(FWIW I have my eye in the V36 market atm also. :) )

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Input shaft bearing. They all do it. There is always rollover noise in Nissan boxes - particularly the big box. Don't worry about it unless it gets really growly.
    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
×
×
  • Create New...