Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

He had the export certificate

This can be easily fudged unfortunately, but you have a better chance it's genuine than most.

Maintenance as always is to drop all fluids on arrival, and change all filters.

  • Like 1

100k seems more legit compared to some being offered for sale around the country.

I've been to see about 4 here in Syd, and even with export certificates you can tell the k's aren't legitimate.

I saw one with a certificate, 2008 model, exp cert had last 2 reg checks in japan, last one was 2 years ago and the car today had only 10000 more k's.

This car had less than 60ks on the clock, but the seatbelt wouldn't retract easily by itself.

Its not a big thing, but I've had Nissans with close to 200ks and no issue with the belts.

Its little things like this that give it away for me.

Giving myself another month or so to find one locally, otherwise will be importing.

As for price, depends on the overall condition. Have been following the auctions for a while, and an 08 manual can still go for anywhere between $23k to $33k landed and complied depending on the condition. Autos for a type S seem to be sitting around low $20k's for a decent one.

For what it's worth, it's not entirely impossible. Mine is a 2009 model, had 22,000km on the clock when I imported it beginning of 2012 and I'm only up to 37,846km after owning it for three years.

Just depends on the use it gets.

  • Like 1

Decided not to go with the black one after seeing a review about the importer. It was horrible. Also talk to a mate who used to be import cars who had dealing with this importer who also do compliance. According to my mate this guy is the go to man if need to wind back the clock.

Put a deposit on a 09 S 7 speed auto. Fresh import with dereg papers and all other docs. 20 inch Rays and blitz coilvers with 82000km on it. I'm happy

  • Like 2

Keeping in mind that the dereg papers are issued by Japanese authorities it would be too fiddly trying to forge them for sake of $20K car. Unless the Jap owner had been winding down the clock on the regular basis before every mileage check.

It's all about the freshly imported cars. Ones they've been in Ozz for a while you can't trust anyone.

Keeping in mind that the dereg papers are issued by Japanese authorities it would be too fiddly trying to forge them for sake of $20K car. Unless the Jap owner had been winding down the clock on the regular basis before every mileage check. It's all about the freshly imported cars. Ones they've been in Ozz for a while you can't trust anyone.

I've read something like:

- Dereg the car first

- Do whatever dirty tricks

- Re-reg the car

- Dereg again, and use this "latest" cert as proof

Therefore it is always best to compare both the auction paper with dereg certificate and (if you can) back track the records for one year or two

Hope someone can verify this?

Put a deposit on a 09 S 7 speed auto. Fresh import with dereg papers and all other docs. 20 inch Rays and blitz coilvers with 82000km on it. I'm happy

Pics or it didn't happen. :glare:

(FWIW I have my eye in the V36 market atm also. :) )

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...