Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just spoke to the guy conforming a discusion i had 2 weeks ago, and newer model, with more features at a better price, and looks tricker as well :rofl: ...information to follow later today

Ok since there have been a few threads about circuit days... first question is always "WHAT TIMES YOU RUNNING?"

I may be able to get these for cheaper then the list price of $450.00 if i do a Group Buy thing.

So description:

- Small and light gauge

- Records up to 480 lap times!

- Accuracy 1/100 sec

- AutoPowered by internal batteries

- Easily readable Display ( 12 mm digits!)

- Not volatile memory

- Auto-Power OFF

- 1 year warranty

Dimensions

- Weight 85g

- Display dimensions 17 x 43 x 77 mm

Features

Automatic Lap timer. Infra Red Transmitter to be installed at track side and receiver. Records up to 480 lap times.

Some of the extra/new features include:

- downloadable lap times to a PC,

- display best lap time as well as curent lap counter,

- Session time remaining

- lower purchase price ;)

- new larger, clearer screen

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46099-interest-in-lap-timers/
Share on other sites

Roy - you are jumping the gun. Again. Your doctor can help with these premature issues you have.

Something that was going to be raised at the General meeting was competiton within the club. My thoughts were to have competiton classes within the club. Was going to be calling on you and Geoff for input on this etc.

But lets tackle this hurdle when we get to it. Right now just keep this as a little wanky toy thread! :rofl:

How about this one?

http://www.percul.com.au/index.html

Actually I already spoke about price and they will be around $900 for the basic Kart type and $2000 for the car suitable one with the large readout.

Your's is a good price. When do I see it?

Actually I already spoke about price and they will be around $900 for the basic Kart type and $2000 for the car suitable one with the large readout.

Yeh they look trick, though ony have two inputs which is a shame.... mine has the integral lap timer and 4 inputs wich is still shy 2 or 3 when you look at the things i wanted to monitor...but where does the rice stop..... at a $4000 Motec ADL? :rofl:

top price Roy, I paid onver 600 for mine :rofl:

THey don't do quarter mile or anything like that, basically all the have is a little infra red receiver in the car, and it counts how long between going past the beacon. You put the beacon on the start finish line and it will tell you how long each lap was.

These are a great idea if you are serious about track days, you can see straight away whether you are getting faster or not....without a timer you never know whether you really did get it right....

Dimensions  

- Weight 85g

Ridiculous. I can't afford to have that much extra weight in the car. That would bring it from a Stage 372 Weight Reduction to a Stage 368 Weight Reduction!!! ;):)

j/k :) Yeah, I paid AUD$600 for my lap timer from the UK, and it's pretty much the same thing (this is probably the newer model)... Great price! :rofl:

D00d...motor first...then fun toys ;)

I already have my fun toy, its sitting under my bed waiting to get my car back :D

But i saw these when looking for my "Atari" and remembered Merli/Duncans was more expensive...so i dont need one, but since im talking to the guy i thought id see if anyone else is interested , like Duncan said they are worth their weight (mmm only 85g) in gold for the feedback they give you on whether certain gears/lines are quicker thru corners :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...