Bosch Ev14 1000cc Injectors Latency Time And Powerfc Settings

[No Crust Racing]

Car is R34 GT-R.

Installed these and car ran briefly with only a correction factor change (set at 48%) but I'm not sure what the latency should be. The car wants to start and almost does.

Other factors to consider, also installed Walbro 460LPH pump with direct battery feed via relay. Have confirmed there's fuel in the rail and that the pump is priming/supplying fuel and getting full voltage.

I bought the set from Kudos which come in a Sonic Performance bag and have part number BSS1000.

Closest I've found is this but I'm not sure what voltage the 34 runs as per that table - http://nyet.org/cars/info/ev14-latency/1000cc.png

[Piggaz]

Tow to tuner

Tuners problem!

[No Crust Racing]

I'd love to drive it there

[Piggaz]

Why?

Or, organise the tuner to come to you and set the settings and do some road tuning before the dyno.

Or, drive to tuner on current injectors and baby the car. Change injectors there. Retune.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

do you have a wideband?

scale the injectors to the right percentage then set the fuel map where it idles at around 100, now adjust the latency on the fly till the idle afr is at around stoich

[mr skidz]

Take into account the injectors are not connected to the same pump as before on same voltage now.

Your new pump is hard-wired to battery now meaning the first 2 load cells @ idle will need even less duty cycle again as the squirter is under more rail pressure now.

Latency settings need to be correct before starting the car.

Your plugs will now be wet.

I Wouldn't be touching a single adjustment on a ecu without wideband connected.

It's like crossing the motorway blindfolded.

Edited December 6, 2015 by mr skidz

[No Crust Racing]

I got the car started last night after leaving it for a while, but I put the PFC settings back to where they were - which should have been way too rich. It didn't want to rev cleanly and would hunt after dropping back down from revs. I turned it off and the penny dropped. These are high impedance injectors...

Is there a generally accepted way to remove the resistor block?

Edited December 6, 2015 by ActionDan

[mr skidz]

What are you actually trying to achieve?

A tow truck of 150bucks is far cheaper than an entire engine rebuild.

Edited December 7, 2015 by mr skidz

[mr skidz]

You can fry things not removing ballast resister

[No Crust Racing]

Just to get it to the tuner. No big deal if I can't will tow it. I always like to have a go where possible.

I wouldn't think it would have any effect other than giving less voltage due to increased resistance in the circuit. (My ohm's law memory is sketchy but I thought higher resistance meant less voltage and given the injectors are being fed through the resistor block, will be seeing less voltage than they want).

Which will be why the car actally ran with the injector percentage scaler put back to stock in the PowerFC.

When I spoke to Sonic Performance they said it won't have caused any damage but the injectors won't flow properly until the resistor is removed.

[Leroy Peterson]

Higher resistance means lower current, voltage stays the same

[No Crust Racing]

Ahh, lower current not voltage. cheers.

Either way, less amps isn't going to "hurt" the injectors as far as I'm aware?

Edited December 7, 2015 by ActionDan

[mr skidz]

Read that something fried on an RX7 doing the same thing I think they fried the ECU not sure how but I read it last week on the RX7 forum it was in regards to the ballast resistor someone left it in when they should have removed it.

[No Crust Racing]

I recall seeing something like that, but I thought it was the other way around. Using high impedance injectors without a resistor pack?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Take into account the injectors are not connected to the same pump as before on same voltage now.

Your new pump is hard-wired to battery now meaning the first 2 load cells @ idle will need even less duty cycle again as the squirter is under more rail pressure now.

I don't believe that statement is correct... the job of the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is to control rail pressure.

Regardless of what the fuel pump OR fuel pressure being pushed into the rail, the FPR will control the rail pressure to maintain 3 bar of fuel pressure going into the motor (taking into account the plenum vac/pressure).

The only instance where the fuel pressure is all over the shop (using the factory regular) is when there's so much flow it cannot return fuel quick enough.. usually caused by running surge tank setups with twin pumps.

[No Crust Racing]

Although according to this, low impedance without resister pack was the culprit - https://www.hondata.com/tech-low-high-impedance-injectors

[Leroy Peterson]

Can't imagine it doing damage to components, injectors may not operate 100% properly maybe?

The resistor pack was just to fool the ecu thinking it was driving high impedance injectors. It was the fashion at the time.

[No Crust Racing]

Yeah didn't think it wouldn't case any damage.

Other than if I went out and WOT the car and leaned it out.

[mr skidz]

I don't believe that statement is correct... the job of the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is to control rail pressure.

Regardless of what the fuel pump OR fuel pressure being pushed into the rail, the FPR will control the rail pressure to maintain 3 bar of fuel pressure going into the motor (taking into account the plenum vac/pressure).

The only instance where the fuel pressure is all over the shop (using the factory regular) is when there's so much flow it cannot return fuel quick enough.. usually caused by running surge tank setups with twin pumps.

you are right. I went back to edit my brain fart but I'm flat out busy at work right now ;/

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

go buy a wideband, a wideband is cheaper than a melted piston