Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So, this is my dilemma. They are hard to get a photo of, and can only be seen in certain light BUT they are everywhere.

the guy a bought it off used a Scourer to remove mould off the car. He left it sitting under a tree for nearly 2 years.

So my concern is, how much Clear/Paint is on the car.. i know these can easily be removed but i don't want to attempt it if there is a risk of causing a bigger problem.

I'm planning on the selling the car in 6 months or so.. So I'm hoping i can eliminate some of the issues. The paint is still shiny and looks great considering.

Also has some rust which needs attending to, most of it is easily repaired.. Couple of spots are of concern.

Or would it simply be better to not worry about the Scratches.

post-134861-0-90204900-1450600417_thumb.jpg

post-134861-0-14275400-1450600440_thumb.jpg

post-134861-0-30651100-1450600464_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/461767-r33-light-scratches-everywhere/
Share on other sites

Was about to say. Looks like someone hit it with a scourer.

You could remove a lot of those marks if you put in the effort with a cut and polish. But it has scratched a lot of the clear and will be making life hard for the next owner. So it really depends on where your morals lie.

That is why I want to get rid of them, I was unfortunate to not have noticed ( was a nice sunny day )

Who ever buys it shouldnt have to worry about it.

as stated I'm sure most will come out, just unsure how much i can cut it back etc

that's shallow scratches. good machine polish will remove them without taking too much clear off

the thickness can be measured but needs a $700 paint depth gauge, no point buying unless you are a pro detailer

Edited by junkie

Wouldn't a panel shop be able to do it just the once for you? Surely it would be better than having an expensive tool lying around never to be used again.

The tool will quickly pay for itself when looking at any cars in 'original condition and 'original paint' etc.

That is true, you could have it for years and only use it a couple of times but for those couple you will be pleased you bought it.

These photos were after a polish. Except the Polish I use is fine as, no grit etc. So maybe a more Hardy polish and a Wax may help.

Otherwise I'll hit it with the Buff, I'll just make sure Im using a light touch.

Once I clear this up I need to have a look at the rust

Wouldn't a panel shop be able to do it just the once for you? Surely it would be better than having an expensive tool lying around never to be used again.

Panel shops are not detailers or "Paint correction" specialists.

  • Like 1

If you are desperate enough to know how much Depth your paint has, I'm sure a shop somewhere wouldnt mind having a look if they have the tool. Might cost you though.

Would probably be easier to either buy one yourself or just wing it though. I've decided to have a go on the boot. atleast it's an easy enough panel to paint or replace as there is heaps of white ones without my issue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...