Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmm...

I've same issue with my R, I got 4wd light on as well.

Does your brakes make grumbling noise when you depress the brake pedals?

I've done some reading on/off for a couple of months, one possibility is the relay in abs unit that is fubar, haven't cracked mine open until I've sourced a replacement cos knowing myself, I'll break it.

Hmm...

I've same issue with my R, I got 4wd light on as well.

Does your brakes make grumbling noise when you depress the brake pedals?

I've done some reading on/off for a couple of months, one possibility is the relay in abs unit that is fubar, haven't cracked mine open until I've sourced a replacement cos knowing myself, I'll break it.

Well thats the thing no definitive answer as to where the said abs relay is is it attached to the abs manifold ? or next to it and no grumbling just stuck in rear wheel drive and absolutely no sign of abs under heavy braking just slides can you take a picture ? or i can of my bay and see what you guys think ?

Just to be sure you have topped up your brake master cylinder and attessa reservoir?

both topped up to the centre marks on a side note the clutch was recently changed could poor bleeding cause this issue ?

Well thats the thing no definitive answer as to where the said abs relay is is it attached to the abs manifold ? or next to it and no grumbling just stuck in rear wheel drive and absolutely no sign of abs under heavy braking just slides can you take a picture ? or i can of my bay and see what you guys think ?

Yep, the relay is inside black box next to the manifold, it's pain in the rear to undo the screws and take the top bit out.

I'm the same, searched for a while with no definitive results.

i have stripped mine down waiting for the replacements to drive now if this is the issue total cost to fix £6.10 still find it odd with no flashing codes on the module apparently if the relay is fubar it flashes pump failure or something along those lines :glare:

Yep, the relay is inside black box next to the manifold, it's pain in the rear to undo the screws and take the top bit out.

I'm the same, searched for a while with no definitive results.

Right chaps just got back in replaced my relays with new ones not as hard as people say but to no avail still got the light on and still no flash from the brain when i turn the ignition should the relays click or prime the motor ?

I did notice one of them are looking bit rough but mine happens when it's cold or when I've driven on speed humps bit quickly or into uneven road surfaces.

have you got a standard ECU? I'd put a consult on it to get the error.

no its a mines ecu although i can't even find the socket even if i could would it read th abs or is it just engine side of things ?

I did notice one of them are looking bit rough but mine happens when it's cold or when I've driven on speed humps bit quickly or into uneven road surfaces.

hmm i will attempt a continuity test ? where are the plug ends for the wheel speed sensors ?

good news then, mines is just a standard ECU with a tune. the ABS might actually use separate pins to the engine data anyway.

ahh right that is good well am i correct in thinking that the com port for diagnostics is under the dash facing down just by the inner fusebox ? in that case mine is not there i will have a further look tonight

hmm i will attempt a continuity test ? where are the plug ends for the wheel speed sensors ?

On the wheel well, follow the lines from sensors to the rubber grommet where it'll go into the engine bay.

I was told that it plugs there to the loom of some sort, haven't looked in detail.

On the wheel well, follow the lines from sensors to the rubber grommet where it'll go into the engine bay.

I was told that it plugs there to the loom of some sort, haven't looked in detail.

okey thank you i will look tonight :glare:

sorry yes forgot to add that bit, it is a grey or white plug near the fuse box.

eg{}:c[e]=d};var l=function(b){xpost-13070-1205647516.jpg.pagespeed.ic.&&0){for(var>

hmm interesting from memory my plug is not there also the fuse panel looks different hmm is yours an s2 ?

Edited by centoproject

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...