Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hmm...

I've same issue with my R, I got 4wd light on as well.

Does your brakes make grumbling noise when you depress the brake pedals?

I've done some reading on/off for a couple of months, one possibility is the relay in abs unit that is fubar, haven't cracked mine open until I've sourced a replacement cos knowing myself, I'll break it.

Hmm...

I've same issue with my R, I got 4wd light on as well.

Does your brakes make grumbling noise when you depress the brake pedals?

I've done some reading on/off for a couple of months, one possibility is the relay in abs unit that is fubar, haven't cracked mine open until I've sourced a replacement cos knowing myself, I'll break it.

Well thats the thing no definitive answer as to where the said abs relay is is it attached to the abs manifold ? or next to it and no grumbling just stuck in rear wheel drive and absolutely no sign of abs under heavy braking just slides can you take a picture ? or i can of my bay and see what you guys think ?

Just to be sure you have topped up your brake master cylinder and attessa reservoir?

both topped up to the centre marks on a side note the clutch was recently changed could poor bleeding cause this issue ?

Well thats the thing no definitive answer as to where the said abs relay is is it attached to the abs manifold ? or next to it and no grumbling just stuck in rear wheel drive and absolutely no sign of abs under heavy braking just slides can you take a picture ? or i can of my bay and see what you guys think ?

Yep, the relay is inside black box next to the manifold, it's pain in the rear to undo the screws and take the top bit out.

I'm the same, searched for a while with no definitive results.

i have stripped mine down waiting for the replacements to drive now if this is the issue total cost to fix £6.10 still find it odd with no flashing codes on the module apparently if the relay is fubar it flashes pump failure or something along those lines :glare:

Yep, the relay is inside black box next to the manifold, it's pain in the rear to undo the screws and take the top bit out.

I'm the same, searched for a while with no definitive results.

Right chaps just got back in replaced my relays with new ones not as hard as people say but to no avail still got the light on and still no flash from the brain when i turn the ignition should the relays click or prime the motor ?

I did notice one of them are looking bit rough but mine happens when it's cold or when I've driven on speed humps bit quickly or into uneven road surfaces.

have you got a standard ECU? I'd put a consult on it to get the error.

no its a mines ecu although i can't even find the socket even if i could would it read th abs or is it just engine side of things ?

I did notice one of them are looking bit rough but mine happens when it's cold or when I've driven on speed humps bit quickly or into uneven road surfaces.

hmm i will attempt a continuity test ? where are the plug ends for the wheel speed sensors ?

good news then, mines is just a standard ECU with a tune. the ABS might actually use separate pins to the engine data anyway.

ahh right that is good well am i correct in thinking that the com port for diagnostics is under the dash facing down just by the inner fusebox ? in that case mine is not there i will have a further look tonight

hmm i will attempt a continuity test ? where are the plug ends for the wheel speed sensors ?

On the wheel well, follow the lines from sensors to the rubber grommet where it'll go into the engine bay.

I was told that it plugs there to the loom of some sort, haven't looked in detail.

On the wheel well, follow the lines from sensors to the rubber grommet where it'll go into the engine bay.

I was told that it plugs there to the loom of some sort, haven't looked in detail.

okey thank you i will look tonight :glare:

sorry yes forgot to add that bit, it is a grey or white plug near the fuse box.

eg{}:c[e]=d};var l=function(b){xpost-13070-1205647516.jpg.pagespeed.ic.&&0){for(var>

hmm interesting from memory my plug is not there also the fuse panel looks different hmm is yours an s2 ?

Edited by centoproject

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...