Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thanks Duncan,

Been here a while though....just in the Stagea area hiding...lol....finding out about the world of the M35 Stagea....big learning curve!!!

Love to bring the R31 out to a track day but to expensive.....we only really use it for racing and maybe a test day every now and again to bed in new bit's or test/sort out something...if the timing's right though we might be able to make one of your track days and use it as a bit of a test session.

Would bring the M35 ARX but it might end up on the roof....bloody fat cow it is....and the brakes are next to useless...lol.

Edited by Jetwreck
1.20 wakefield absolutely pouring rain and first time

I can vouch for that - it was pouring rain and cold on Saturday. I got a 1:16.4, but I'm not telling you what I was driving for fear of ridicule on this forum! My Datto track car is in pieces thanks to a spark plug 'picking up' the thread when I tried to remove it... of all the stupid little things that can go wrong prepping a car for a track day! So I took my road car down there instead. I think I could have gone a little quicker in the later session if it wasn't for the bloke in a shitbox proton rally car cutting half the corners and dragging heaps of mud onto the track just after all those apexes...

sorry Chris, didn't even realise at the time that anyone I'd know was there, apart from Marty. I should have, I saw your username on that other forum, but it just didn't click. I think after the 1180km drive on Friday my brain wasn't really operating all that well on Saturday. And apart from the stopage for the crashed Evo when I went back into town, it was all happening pretty fast out there.

there was someone else from SAU out there, who I was talking to for a while but I wouldn't have a clue what his username is. He's been thinking about buying one too, but was worried about how they handle until he saw mine out there on Saturday...

Edited by hrd-hr30
Peterm13, what club are you running the sprints with? SAU/WRX are off to Winton on the 9th Feb. Didnt like Winton at first bu the place is growing on me :)

PIARC at the moment. still havent got round to calling you with my q's about joining SAU vic. cbf doing winton yet too far, maybe later in the year. for now sandown and PI are doing me fine.

  • 2 weeks later...

SAU Nickname: Stig O'Tracy

Car Make and Model: 93 R32 GTR

Circuit Name: Wakefield

Lap time: 1:18.4 - damp/wet patches

Modifications

Engine: Front Mount / Exhaust

Power: approx 210kw (UAS dyno)

Suspension: front and rear strut bars otherwise standard

Tyres: RE55

Brakes: standard discs / calipers Ferodo DS2500s

Body weight: me or the car - both too heavy

First time at Wakie in the GTR and first time out with a proper lap-timer (Mychron). It was pissing down first thing today, drizzled til lunch and lightened off after lunch. Still a couple of wet patches and water running across the track just after Turn 8 (the fish-hook). Should be back in about 4 weeks for another go - hopefully a bit drier......

Mark - was there another GTR out there being driven by a bloke names Jase?

Another GTR (R32 Maroon) - sorry I forget the guy's name. He was there with some others who had an S15 and Golf GTI between them - looked like the Nissan guys were really enjoying coming out of Turn 10! :)

yeah the maroon GTR is my mate!

do you know what times he was doing?

sorry - not specifically. I spoke to one of the group who mentioned 1:15 but not sure which car he was referring to.

  • 2 weeks later...
Update: 1:37.06 for Winton

Only change to previous setup is 2860-5's instead of single T04z.

Arch, you're flying - I can say it's a great set up. We are now officially mechanically even. Should be good head to head.

Regards

Andrew

Andrew

Yep heaps better than the single that's for sure.

Mechanically even you say..hmm there might still be a thing or two you've got up on me still but they're not biggies and I'll try to get em too in the not to distant future *cough* transfer case. But looking forward to the head to head and following you around PI.

Tis around tree fiddy

Andrew

Yep heaps better than the single that's for sure.

Mechanically even you say..hmm there might still be a thing or two you've got up on me still but they're not biggies and I'll try to get em too in the not to distant future *cough* transfer case. But looking forward to the head to head and following you around PI.

Tis around tree fiddy

Ah ok - transfer case - a great mod. I have got one of those attessa controllers to put in after P.I., be interesting to see how the two mods interact.

All I have to do now is try and keep the engine temp under control for 4 flying laps - no mean feat this time of year.

Regards

Andrew

Hey Andrew - on a test day I did at Winton I took 1s off my lap time by giving the Attessa button a couple of clicks. Infact my pb's at all tracks except Calder (where I haven't used it) have been with at least SOME value of input from the Attessa controller. Even though at places like Sandown and Phillip Island it may have just been one or 2 clicks. And I have transfer case mod done as well. The 2 mods act differently in how they effect the cars characteristics.

Hey Andrew - on a test day I did at Winton I took 1s off my lap time by giving the Attessa button a couple of clicks. Infact my pb's at all tracks except Calder (where I haven't used it) have been with at least SOME value of input from the Attessa controller. Even though at places like Sandown and Phillip Island it may have just been one or 2 clicks. And I have transfer case mod done as well. The 2 mods act differently in how they effect the cars characteristics.

Cool, I've been umming and arring about one of those for 12 months and ended up grabbing the very last one that Duncan had.

Just got to gather up the courage to rip my virgin dash trim apart and cut and join a few wires.

Cheers

AA

cmon get the drill out, you'll love it. nissan agreed and added more and more front torque throughout the different attessa version, in fact Andrew's R34 runs about the most stock. It's a shame Mark isn't making them any more, they've raced in Japan, won a couple of dutton rallies, done targa etc etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...