Jump to content
SAU Community

Nismo 280km/h Speedo Cluster On Non Sat/nav 2003 V35 Possible?

Arycama
 Share

Recommended Posts

Arycama Explorer

Arycama

Posted
Posted (edited)
I noticed there are Nismo instrument clusters for the earlier V35's, which show the speedo going up to 280km/h, as opposed to only 180km/h. (They also have the Nismo logo which looks awesome) However they apparently require the Sat/Nav package, which unfortunately the V35 I'm importing doesn't have. Does anyone know if it's absolutely essential to have the Sat/Nav package, or if there is another option for an aftermarket instrument cluster showing the speedo going above 180km/h? If not, I don't suppose it's possible to take out the Sat/Nav components from another V35, say one that is being scrapped for parts (Already seen two on gumtree which both have the Sat/Nav package) and get it working, has anyone ever tried this?


I'm not planning on taking it anywhere near 180 km/h on the street, but in the future it would be cool to have the option of tracking it once or twice for fun, so it would be useful to have the option of seeing speeds above 180km/h. Plus, having the Sat/Nav package just makes the car feel more "complete", even though it's not useful in Australia. (I understand the speed is also electronically limited to 180km/h but can be removed, would this be defectable?)


Sorry if these question has been answered elsewhere, couldn't find anything with the search function however. Thanks for any information!


P.S. My V35 has a manual transmission

Edited by Arycama
Taine Newbie

Taine

Posted
Posted

Haven't heard of any swap, try getting the model of the 280kph one and buy for ebay. If you can work a multimeter you might be able to hook it up but i think it uses a different loom to the 180kph. and don't worry about the speed, its not limited, and if you run turbos or superchargers it will go above 180kph

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

There are two models as the navigation model uses the dash for CAN data, to display the leaf etc. I think either should work in the non nav model, but don't quote me.

Arycama Explorer

Arycama

Posted
  • Author
Posted

What? Where did you come from with that nonsense?

Are you referring to me saying that the Nismo cluster only working with the Sat/Nav version? It says so here:

https://www.japanparts.com/parts/detail/1197

"**ONLY for MY2004/11 and before with genuine TV/DVD Navi equipped model."

As for the "limited to 180 km/h" part, I can't recall off the top of my head, but read that Japanese street cars are electronically limited to 180 km/h.

If either of the above are incorrect, let me know. Or were you referring to something else when you said "where did you come from with that nonsense"?

Arycama Explorer

Arycama

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There are two models as the navigation model uses the dash for CAN data, to display the leaf etc. I think either should work in the non nav model, but don't quote me.

What does CAN data stand for?

sonicii Veteran

sonicii

Posted
Posted

What does CAN data stand for?

Controller Area Network. It is a fairly standard data bus used in most modern cars so each electronic component can communicate with each other. Some manufacturers use unique protocols, for some components, thus the vanilla type OBD2 readers won't talk to those components.

And as above.. the 'nonsense' statement was likely directed at the idea that these cars aren't limited to 180.. and the suggestion that the Nismo cluster uses a different connector.

The Series 2/3 cluster uses a different connector to the Series 1, but as long as you get the nismo cluster for the correct series, the connectors should be the same.

All JDM cars are limited to 180km/h by law in Japan. you will need an ECU reflash, or aftermarket ECU to remove this.

The Max Mentor

The Max

Posted
Posted

If either of the above are incorrect, let me know. Or were you referring to something else when you said "where did you come from with that nonsense"?

Not something else - someone else ... pretty much everything that Taine said. Takes a bit more than a multimeter and continuity testing to be sure you get it right. All Japanese vehicles are speed limited to 180km/h and as for having to use forced induction to see beyond 180km/h, well... (nah, I won't go there)

And CAN stands for Controller Area Network, used by a variety of equipment outside of the automotive realm as well, but it's all about carrying control data around in motor vehicles predominantly as a means of minimising the wiring required since every device transmits and listens on the same wires, waiting for its turn in accordance with the ID transmitted at the head of each data packet before it responds accordingly.

Arycama Explorer

Arycama

Posted
  • Author
Posted

All good, thanks for the replies so far. How do I tell what series my V35 is? It's a 2003 350GT coupe. As far as I can tell, the nismo cluster is only for models before November 2004, after that the instrument panel was refined.

sonicii Veteran

sonicii

Posted
Posted

^^ this.. clusters are quite different. S1 has speedo and fuel gauge on the left, tacho and temp gauge on the right. S2/3 are the other way around.

I don't know if they actually made a nismo cluster for the S2/3?? someone might be able to correct me there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...