Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The story. I am very late into the race car scene an was convinced by a mate to take his 33 to a track day and I was hooked from the first spool an had to have one. I've only ever owned one car (V8 67 fairlane I build 10 years ago with my dad) and as much as I loved the boost and chu chu, n/a V8 always made more sense for me.

I was selling cars at the time so over 6 months I bought/sold/traded my way to where I'm at now, rebuilding and reshelling an LS power r33. I initially bought this r33 from a guy in Ballarat

post-141265-14556207381916_thumb.jpg

post-141265-14556207920366_thumb.jpg

Which came with a free 33 rolling shell which I figured I could sell some parts off to buy more parts to eventually LS swap the silver car.

post-141265-14556209382787_thumb.jpg

My mate half suggested leaving the shell behind but it turned out to be a wise decision to trailer it back to Wodonga. The trispoke wheel on the spare had proper semi slicks which I'm still getting use out of. The giant dual blade wing has since been swapped for a fibreglass flush mount boot etc.

I did a few track days in the silver 33, worked through a few issues it had and got a crash course in turbos. I then had an opportunity to buy/sell/trade up into a ready built 33 ls1 with two racing seats, serious roll cage, drift wing, cam, drift steering/suspension setup far cheaper than I could ever build myself

post-141265-14556214378849_thumb.jpg

post-141265-14556214611029_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463003-mitchs-r33-ls-track-car-rebuild/
Share on other sites

So I did an khanacross/skid pan day, had a blast then put the semis on for a track day. First lap coming onto the main straight in third gear, nowhere near the limiter it revs out like it popped out of gear. I shifted to fourth... Nothing. I shifted to third... Nothing there. Assuming I've blown the box somehow I roll down the straight and around the corner and for some reason tried again to find another gear and away I went. Through the back onto the main straight and same again. Came good after 10 seconds, so next lap tried to short shift into fourth and crunch, couldn't get it in. Throughout the day I stuck with 1st through 3rd, even finding the limiter in 3rd if I eased through it and kept putting better laps down with the obvious handicap. Last sprint for the day, took off 1st, 2nd and leave it in third for the whole session, put some good laps in, my best lap even. Tried to downshift into the pits and couldn't, came to a complete stop and still couldn't hit any gear but third.

Limped it onto the trailer and off to the farm for major over haul

post-141265-14556939491137_thumb.jpg

A few things that troubled me with the blue one helped me to the decision to do a reshell with the white one.

Blue one had a sunroof (that leaked) and fouled my helmet, boot leaked, every panel was rough as guts, wiring was non existent, no gauges worked, paint was awful... Etc.

So plan of attack;

Engine & tran out/indentify problem/fix

Put back in white one doing a better job

Swap all the good bits from one to the other

Deadline early April for second sprint event (away on honeymoon for first)

The spec list from the blue skid pig which should translate to the rebuild minus a few kilos, plus a few functioning gauges.

LS1 R33

T56 gearbox

Extreme clutch

Cusco coilovers

Castor rods

Camber arms

Lengthened LCAs

Rear camber arm

Hicas lock bar

Cam spec half cage

Hydro handbrake

Surge tank

Bosch 040

Fuel pressure reg

Sparco harness

Fix back buckets

Oil cooler

Power steering cooler

New ss rad

Thermo fans

Baby cam

Drift wing

New push rods valve springs etc

Tuned at jaustech 260rwkw 756nm

The car is at my old mans farm, he's been a mechanic for 40years and is more into race cars than I ever knew. I've got a month off coming up to do a few things... Rebuild race car, get married, go o/s for honey moon, rebuild a race car!!! My old man has already put a few days spanner time into it, I only hope I get to put some time into it myself. I'm genuinely excited to learn first hand and get the car the way I want but I can't complain I guess.

Within an hour he calls me to say the engine and tran are out and he's found the issue.

post-141265-14556949223938_thumb.jpg

post-141265-14556950084396_thumb.jpg

There had been an issue previously with a stripped/broken bolt in the gear selection somewhere which had been solved with dropping an oversized bolt in and pointing a mig welder in the general direction

post-141265-14556951581866_thumb.jpg

The bolt was catching 6th gear, munched away, filled the box with metal and eventually the weld let go. There was also the issue of burnt out clutch plate

post-141265-14556952589486_thumb.jpg

f**ked flywheel

post-141265-14556953268768_thumb.jpg

And a few bent fingers

post-141265-14556953912445_thumb.jpg

Inside the t56 we've got to replace the 3rd/4th sycro and a few ramps as well as have my uncle (engineeer/engine builder) weld up so alloy in the trans housing and helicoil the plate back.

Not sure which issue came first and if it caused the others, doesn't really matter I guess. Time to get started

Can't afford a new/2nd hand t56 or new HD clutch so soon after buying this and so close to the wedding so for now it'll be new synchro and ramps ($91), weld up trans housing ($0 thanks uncle tony) and rebuild the tranny. As much as I know it's not the done thing to put a 2nd hand clutch and flywheel in, it's the only way I'll have the car racing this year so my brother is picking this up as we speak

post-141265-14556968875797_thumb.jpg

post-141265-14556969422467_thumb.jpg

Xtreme HD button clutch and flywheel that has apparently only done 1,000kms and then removed to go auto.

Paid $300

So stripping all pipes, clips, wires and anything in the engine bay that's sharp enough to cut your hands up (old mans pet hate).

post-141265-14556975807917_thumb.jpg

We also deduced that at some point the trans had been removed without the engine coming out. When it went back in, a lot of the bolts towards the top never went back in. When it comes time to massage the trans tunnel we'll make sure we leave room to work on it down the track to put a new clutch in.

The extractors on the drivers side pass between the chassis rail and steering box with little clearance. The chassis rail gets a 'massage' to help there but the extractors were never bolted on 100% as the whole bank had soot marks out the top. Another thing to do better the 2nd time round

post-141265-14556979562315_thumb.jpg

Also look to put another heat barrier between the extractors and steering box, car runs a power steering cooler, I assume this contributes.

  • Like 1

Hey Mitch,

I've got a spare T56 with short shfiter and standard clutch sitting round pending what you have spare to pay?

Message me if you want.

Other wise, AWESOME build. I never finished mine, can no longer justify the dollars :(

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

So wedding been and gone, was a good night. Now back to the race car. Got the new clutch, was missing a few bolts so I'm happy I'll get a decent run out of it for $250. Stripping out all the interior, dash, heater box etc. swapping parts across one at a time, I've underestimated how much time this is going to take...

post-141265-1456900973119_thumb.jpg

Finding better places to run wiring, mount ecu.

post-141265-14569010131323_thumb.jpg

Got the trans housing welded up and a few new ramps and syncros ready to rebuild the box as good as newpost-141265-14569011008444_thumb.jpg

post-141265-14569011114266_thumb.jpg

Ground off all unnecessary bolts sticking out of the firewall that'll rip your hands up

post-141265-1456901188676_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...