Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi everyone,im new here and a helpfull assist would be much appreciated..

I have a BNR34Vspec 2001 and facing a problem tat after my car came to a fullstop,after a few seconds my 4wd and A-LSD lights got turn on..after restarting it again everything went normal and it got turn on again after a few second of fullstop..ive checked the resovoir behind the rear boot and fluid are at the max level..ive been tru and read forums but couldnt find a problem that happenned exactly like mine..

I wish to try solving it myself so is there any idea where i can start from?

Help and assist are most appreciated and pls to meet everyone here since im new here and also new to my car

Cheers everyone!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463322-4wd-and-a-lsd-lights-onbnr34vspec/
Share on other sites

I did tried finding the spot to read ecu code behind the boot and ended up clueless where its is..tru reading from forums reading ecu codes from boot isnt it apply only for r32 and r33?

Thanks for the reply Hadouken :)

Meathead:u mean after the lights turn on,shut off the and turn on the engine and give it a 1000rpm and see if the lights are on again?ok ill gv it a try by tis evening..if lights still turn on after wat u intruct me to do means theres a TPS failure right?do correct me if im wrong

Thanks for the reply ill update after ive try it out.cheers

Meathead:u mean after the lights turn on,shut off the and turn on the engine and give it a 1000rpm and see if the lights are on again?ok ill gv it a try by tis evening..if lights still turn on after wat u intruct me to do means theres a TPS failure right?do correct me if im wrong

Thanks for the reply ill update after ive try it out.cheers

Yeah with the engine switched off start it and keep the rpm 1000 and above for a few minutes and see if the Alsd light is on, if it is not and you let it come back to idle does the Alsd light illuminate after a while again ?

You may have a fluctuating idle that goes below normal and sends a low TPS signal to the Atessa cu which will cause the alarm

TPS signal to Atessa on my r33 gtr vspec is 0.3 - 3.7 v if it falls outside of this it will fault.

You could check the AAC valve (under plenum - 4 bolts and a plug) give it a clean and renew the joint. Idle can be adjusted with the screw.

Lots of AAC cleaning threads here in SAU to help you.

If you are not sure get someone else to do it, preferably a friend as a shop will probably sting!

I am not saying this is your problem but it could be. Might be dirty plugs also causing hunting.

Good Luck!

Edited by Meathead
How tf is hunting and dirty plugs related to a 4wd light?[/quote

Hey tf your mouth runs before your brain

You should question other posters in a more civil way.

Tps is directly proportional to rpm which signal inputs to atessa tf

If you could not figure that out then maybe you should just pull your head in tf

Meathead:ive tried as u intructed..like revving above 1000rpm..the lights did not turn on..but as i let go the acceleration my rpm idle show slightly above 1000rpm,is tat a normal?

BTW,wat AAC valve means..?sorry for a noob question..trying to learn as much as i can

Thanks for the reply and point outs..

Not the obvious culprits then.

You should seriously see what fault code is coming up, lots of things can trigger this. ie wheel speed sensors for one.

Regarding far fetched - not at all mate Atessa takes rpm signal also and if the rpm signal fluctuates below a certain range say from hunting caused by fouled plugs it will error. \

Count grantleyish:the 4wd and A-LSD comes on whenever the car come into fullstop...i didnt time lap how long it needs to be driven to alarm the lights to go on..as if itll turn on as long as car stop moving and after few seconds..it came on..

Meathead:yeah,mayb ill take your advise and do a scan just like GTSBoy suggested...but before goin into that i would like to gv a bleed to the attesa system fot any trap air..will update see if this gonna work..cheers everone and thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...