Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi - what size fuse is everyone using with the 450lph e85 walbro pump?

I was on stock wiring for a few months (bad I know), R34 gt4 so no variable voltage, but then popped the standard 15A fuse.

Have just rewired with 8 gauge and a relay, ran for about 10 minutes, then blew a 30A fuse.

Any thoughts? Is the pump dead or do I need to go higher in the fuse rating?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/463388-walbro-blowing-fuses/
Share on other sites

I think you've done something wrong.

I have a 25A fuse on my Walbro with basic 12ga wiring (as it's next to the battery) with a 40A relay and never has blown any fuses.

Not to mention at the track it runs 4.5bar of fuel pressure 80% of the time meaning it would draw approximately 17A for long durations.

Sounds like you've got a short somewhere... check inside your fuel tank to see if your chemical heat shrinks and/or crimps have come apart and shorting.

Yes, ok thanks - it didn't sound right to me either.

Looking at the walbro specs I shouldn't be near 30A currently. Forgot to mention that both times it has broken on me, car was running for about 10-15 mins first, OK when cold.

So either have a problem in the tank, or pump is faulty.

You relay is melting internally, seen it many times.

The coil on large relays needs over 12V to hold the contacts in hard, the car is only supplying 8 or 9 volts sometimes.

Hmmm so that's why my 40 Amp Narva really never ticked over with the ecu signal but the OEM one did

20 amp seems a little small seeing they draw 25-30 but the smaller you go the less spring they have, which should fix the issue to some extent.

I posted a solid state relay circuit to feed 14v power to the relay coil recently, but I notice there are relays for sale with the solid state input incorporated into them these days, for this very reason.

You relay is melting internally, seen it many times.

The coil on large relays needs over 12V to hold the contacts in hard, the car is only supplying 8 or 9 volts sometimes.

People usually use post OEM relay to trigger their relay setup (so relay on relay).. what you need to do is actually take the trigger off your OEM relay ECU to trigger your new relay setup.

I've done this on many cars and no issues. Alternatively a SSR is a better solution but they are pricey and often need heatsinks to work efficiently.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
×
×
  • Create New...