Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was just noticing the Base map tune trim for the Haltech Platinum pro has a pretty serious addition for fuel on the high end of boost and RPM on the # 4,5 and 6 cylinders. I am assuming this is for factory coolant and intake manifold layout...

So I have a few questions:

1) Do most people zero out the fuel trims when moving to a bigger plenum? I'm running a Hypertune V2 and the coolant is all relocated out of the intake manifold collector to a separate manifold that I have made up to go back to the radiator.

2) Does anyone know a procedure for finding out HOW to tune individual injector trims?

3) Does anyone have a base map tune for single turbo with hypertune manifold?

Any ideas or comments are welcome. Thank you.

  • Like 1

Yep, would have to be EGT's though, since widebands can't handle heat of turbo manifold. Not sure I'll ever be convinced to put 6 EGT sensors in the manifold.

if you checked your spark plugs you'll notice 4-5-6 run hotter (look cleaner) naturally being at the back, SR20's run hotter naturally on 3-4.

you can as an option use colder plugs in 4-5-6 to manage heat and zero those trims back, but I'd be leaving it as is unless you have a means of measuring it other than reading the plugs and comparing 1 to 6.

my 2c

Edited by mr skidz

I know the factory head manifold design is such that coolant just doesn't circulate well through the back of the head and those cylinders run a bit hotter than the fronts. If you think about it, the coolant from the pump has to fight friction losses all the way to the back and likely is taking the path of least resistance by exiting up front first. Also while it's traveling to the rear of the head it's constantly absorbing heat from the head and block. If you look at the factory HEATER EXIT port in the Right side of the block, it's exiting on the rear of the engine. It also constantly recirculates to the back of the water pump regardless of the thermostat position (ie-constant circulation hot or cold). I've wondered if this was plumbed this way to constantly have the water pump draw fluid from the back of the block to promote circulation (ie reduced stagnation) there.

You can see this clearly in the intake manifold design. I have attached some annotated drawings showing the original manifold, the block heater / coolant bypass piping made up on my engine, and the Hypertune 1 and 2 manifolds.

It would be nice to introduce colder temp coolant towards the rear of the engine somewhere. I will be putting a coolant temp sensor in the rear of the block so I can log this with the Haltech later. May show us some good information.

Patrick

post-136202-0-47953200-1459968602_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-42811900-1459968616_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-34314400-1459968627_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-99502000-1459968634_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-29561500-1459968642_thumb.jpg

I don't think it a good idea to have the coolant running through the inlet manifold like that on a 2000+ dollar race manifold. I would rather modify a greddy copy to suit a singe throttle body. Heaps cheaper. Maybe if it had a revised coolant flow system like a tube similar to the member above and runners that went all the way to the head. But that would prolly cost a small fortune

Edited by gmchaser

So now you've got me wondering and concerned lol. I'm in the states and already have a tough time getting adequate work/tuning on my GTR.

I'm running a Haltech Pro platinum on a V2 intake manifold (single TB)

Basically my setup is a built 8.5:1 2.6L with a PTE6466.

I had it tuned by Nate at TPG tuning, he does great work and my car feels fine and plugs look good BUT now you have me curious...

When you say a pretty serious amount, could you help me out and state values. Are we longer injector on time for #4,5,6? Enriched a few percent?

Thanks for your help.

I personally would install 6x EGTs

Load up the car lightly on the dyno say around 100kPA or a little more at 3k RPM or so and adjust fuel accordingly so the EGTs are about the same across all 6.

So now you've got me wondering and concerned lol. I'm in the states and already have a tough time getting adequate work/tuning on my GTR.

I'm running a Haltech Pro platinum on a V2 intake manifold (single TB)

Basically my setup is a built 8.5:1 2.6L with a PTE6466.

I had it tuned by Nate at TPG tuning, he does great work and my car feels fine and plugs look good BUT now you have me curious...

When you say a pretty serious amount, could you help me out and state values. Are we longer injector on time for #4,5,6? Enriched a few percent?

Thanks for your help.

It's in their base map tunes. I'll screenshot the tables in a min

Haltech Platinum Pro plugin factory basemap for R32 GT-R fuel injector trim tables.

Injectors 1-3 are zero trim

Injectors 4,5 and 6 are all different and increase in fuel added percentage on top end of tables. The highest realistic is around 2% for cylinder 6.

post-136202-0-26618300-1460599864_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-92728000-1460599870_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-36661800-1460599876_thumb.jpg

post-136202-0-81261800-1460599881_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

If the highest trim is 2% don't worry. Injector sets can vary that much. If you have specs on your injectors you put the larger ones to the back. Then you can dial out the trims.

Or do option 1: do nothing

If the highest trim is 2% don't worry. Injector sets can vary that much. If you have specs on your injectors you put the larger ones to the back. Then you can dial out the trims.

Or do option 1: do nothing

I'm with you. My injector set had a sheet with all the flows. I'm putting the higher ones in the rear.

I'll do a few top end pulls and cut power to check plugs to make sure everything is still good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Possibly avoid using a Cometic one unless the deck/head surface are perfectly flat. I did have a look just then and forgiving gaskets such as Tomei or Nitto don't exist for the FJ20, however the Bar-Tek or Kameari ones look good and might do the trick.
    • Because pipe threads for pipe things. M threads for bolt things. Throw some teflon sealant onto it and dust your hands off knowing you did the right thing, instead of going twice around the block to achieve a result using the wrong things. Of course, all of these solutions are ignoring the fact that the minimum thread pitch we're talking about here is 1.25mm, with the 1/4" in NPT or BPS being out around 1.4mm. You will need to know that the boss you're tapping has enough thickness for at least a few threads. That's one of the reasons that 1/8" is commonly used - because the pitch is <1mm. And why would you look to use 1/4" NPT in a BSP country anyway? Ugh.
    • Just throwing around ideas, does it need to be in the compressor cover? Why not the hot side piping?
    • 1/8NPT drill size = 8.7mm. Since the hole got messed up by me, it’s probably around 9mm.    So 1/4” NPT would be next step. A drill size of around 11mm would be preferred there which is not way of my M12 (drill 10.5mm and tap M12 threads) 
    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
×
×
  • Create New...