Jump to content
SAU Community

Greddy Engine Oil Block Type E - Bnr32

WantGTR

By WantGTR,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

WantGTR Mentor

WantGTR

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

thinking about buying one of these for an oil cooler set up. i like the built in thermostat and i really dont want to fit a relocator.

the hicas is removed so there is more room.

does anyone here have it fitted to there bnr32? to me it looks like there isnt enough room. am i wrong?

pic of said sandwhich plate

nengun-3025-04-greddy-oil_sensor_adapter

HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

thinking about buying one of these for an oil cooler set up. i like the built in thermostat and i really dont want to fit a relocator.

the hicas is removed so there is more room.

does anyone here have it fitted to there bnr32? to me it looks like there isnt enough room. am i wrong?

pic of said sandwhich plate

nengun-3025-04-greddy-oil_sensor_adapter

Pictures and information in my build thread on page 6. NO CLUE about factory manifold and such, but I'm sure it's possible. I had mine in several different arrangements starting with your idea, and then moving to the final idea of relocating the oil filter as well... Note where my temp pickup is located, this is on the RETURN side from the oil cooler so that you know what the temp of the oil is going into the engine.

Borci88 Veteran

Borci88

Posted
Posted

Need to remove standard oil cooler

The heat exchanger? You don't. I've fitted a few of these now to 32, 33 and 34 and they all fit. They're a little annoying because where the cooler hose comes from is very close to the engine mount, I'm talking 1cm close. It can be done and they're actually a great piece of kit that after fitting 10+ of them I put one on mine as well.

GTR_JOEY Grand Master

GTR_JOEY

Posted
Posted

The heat exchanger? You don't. I've fitted a few of these now to 32, 33 and 34 and they all fit. They're a little annoying because where the cooler hose comes from is very close to the engine mount, I'm talking 1cm close. It can be done and they're actually a great piece of kit that after fitting 10+ of them I put one on mine as well.

Well there you go

HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
Posted

Also the two additional fittings they send are blanked. They also sell some that are tapped 1/8 but this is NOT NPT, it's PT (Japanese). I drilled and tapped my blank ones for my temp and pressure sensor pickups.

WantGTR Mentor

WantGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

was thinking that.

i noticed the coolers with the -10 outlets are considerable cheaper than the -12 ones.

im thinking most people buy the -10 ones?

in my mind im thinking bigger is better, no?

what are peoples thoughts on buying a oil cooler with -10 outlets and buying a -10 to -12 hose end?

wildeagle44 Collaborator

wildeagle44

Posted
Posted

was thinking that.

i noticed the coolers with the -10 outlets are considerable cheaper than the -12 ones.

im thinking most people buy the -10 ones?

in my mind im thinking bigger is better, no?

what are peoples thoughts on buying a oil cooler with -10 outlets and buying a -10 to -12 hose end?

Also interested in reasoning of -10 vs -12

I would have thought you may see a pressure drop?

wld093 Contributor

wld093

Posted
Posted (edited)

In the process of fitting my oil cooler setup without relocation. Extra parts required on top of kit was

oil filter stud - purchased from kudos Motorsport

Trust/greedy sensor adapter to fit factory oil pressure sender. The oil temp sensor won't fit unless you get an adapter to step up. I am going to be running aftermarket oil temp/pressure gauge which will come with correct sensor fitting 1/8 npt if I'm not mistaken.

I have not fitted a relief valve to my N1 block but will be running a filter that runs one.

I have chosen to remove the heat exchanger but this is not a must. Clears up a lot of space which I like. Obviously the factory coolant lines that feed heat exchanger will need to be bunged if going down this path.

Manifold is fitted in photo.

post-100155-14615772869524_thumb.jpgpost-100155-14615772996771_thumb.jpg

Edited by wld093
HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
Posted

Also interested in reasoning of -10 vs -12

I would have thought you may see a pressure drop?

1) I don't think the hole from the block that sends oil is 1/2" in diameter but it's been a while since I looked at it. -10AN is approximately .5" in diameter and is AMPLE (IMO) for the oil flow in most engines unless you are running something crazy I don't know about.

2) The Greddy kit fittings are -10AN fittings. I'd assume they would send -12AN if it were required for our engines.

WantGTR Mentor

WantGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

In the process of fitting my oil cooler setup without relocation. Extra parts required on top of kit was

oil filter stud - purchased from kudos Motorsport

Trust/greedy sensor adapter to fit factory oil pressure sender. The oil temp sensor won't fit unless you get an adapter to step up. I am going to be running aftermarket oil temp/pressure gauge which will come with correct sensor fitting 1/8 npt if I'm not mistaken.

I have not fitted a relief valve to my N1 block but will be running a filter that runs one.

I have chosen to remove the heat exchanger but this is not a must. Clears up a lot of space which I like. Obviously the factory coolant lines that feed heat exchanger will need to be bunged if going down this path.

Manifold is fitted in photo.

looks great. from the replies in this thread i have decided to keep the factory heat exchanger so i dont see why i would need the additional sensor adapter. i was however under the impression that the sandwhich plate came with a stud. ill have to check what i have bought.

1) I don't think the hole from the block that sends oil is 1/2" in diameter but it's been a while since I looked at it. -10AN is approximately .5" in diameter and is AMPLE (IMO) for the oil flow in most engines unless you are running something crazy I don't know about.

2) The Greddy kit fittings are -10AN fittings. I'd assume they would send -12AN if it were required for our engines.

after all that i bought i the -12 version. ill be going -12 everything.

HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
Posted

I am wondering what the oil flow is if you have the factory exchanger in place. I have mine laying around and may want to see what the flow is doing before you decide to leave it. If it's first in line the temp reading won't be what's actually going back into the engine and if it's last in line the work from your external cooler would be undone from the exchanger reheating it.

Just a thought. Oil flows out from the block on the outside of the oil boss and back into the engine through the center bolt FYI.

  • 3 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Did you panel beat the dents or have you tried to repair this only using filler?  Is your sanding block soft/flexible and is following the shape of the panel rather then just knocking down the high points? 
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      I haven't knocked them down yet. I think I made the repair more complex than it should have been. I had rock chips combined with waviness and dents and I tackled it all in one because it was near each other and just end up wasting a bunch of bog lol. I'll knock down those areas and see how I go. And yep what you are saying at the end is correct. I think I might be sanding the top of a steep hill then my sanding block falls into the dent and gets rid of the guidecoat if that makes sense. Though shouldnt unless I'm covering too big of an area with not a long enough block. I'll try something new and provide some updates. Getting there though! Thanks as always.  
    • Murray_Calavera
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      Yeah makes sense, hard to comment on your situation without seeing what your doing. I was talking generally before, I would not be looking to randomly create low spots with a hammer to then have to fill them.  It's hard without seeing what your doing, it sounds like you are using the guide coat to identify low spots, as you're saying the panel is still wavy. I don't see how you're not ending up with patches of guide coat remaining in a wavy panel? Once the high spots are knocked down to the correct level, surely to have a wavy panel you need low spots. And those low spots would have guide coat still in them?
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz · Posted

      So I'll put filler past the repair area a bit to make sure I don't miss anything. Then I'll block it until it's almost level, put the guidecoat, then keep blocking until it's gone. Then it's still wavy.  In regards to hitting the panel, I saw this video might give more context - Skip to 0:47 he knocks it down. But yeah I'm sanding until the guidecoat is gone then checking because otherwise my filler is still well above the bodyline. Unless what you're saying is I should put guidecoat around it early, surrounding the filler then stip once it's gone?
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      I refreshed the OEM injectors with the kit and connected it up. It now ideals okay even with the IACV removed. Driving still has the same cutoff issue like the 550cc injectors so the issue is somewhere else. I bought FPG's Fuel Pump Hanger. I will be installing it next, but it is not as straightforward as I thought it was with my limited wiring knowledge and no instruction on the specific model I purchased (FPG-089). I also got the incorrect billet clamp as I could not find info on the OEM sizing.
×
×
  • Create New...