Jump to content
SAU Community

Na Brake Booster Can't Handle The Boooost

R33 Jared
 Share

Recommended Posts

R33 Jared Enthusiast

R33 Jared

Posted
Posted

I have an R33 GTS-t Series 1. It originally had an aspirated RB25 swapped into it for P Plater laws, 2 years into owning it I then reimplanted a S2 RB25det. All is sweet, only when I disconnect the brake booster to intake manifold hose. If that is connected, it makes a screaming sound, as if the brake booster could only handle atmospheric pressure, not the pressure of a turbo. What are my solutions here so i can still have safe, working brakes and the full 7pounds of boost?

Scott Black Rising Star

Scott Black

Posted
Posted

basically all working properly the booster should never see boost as stated above there is ment to be a one way valve in the line, if the booster actually sees boost the brakes wont work well at all. check the one way valve to ensure it works, and also make sure the booster isnt stuffed and leaking,
as above where is the screaming noise actually comming from and when does it do it, idle, driving, only on boost ?

R33 Jared Enthusiast

R33 Jared

Posted
  • Author
Posted

basically all working properly the booster should never see boost as stated above there is ment to be a one way valve in the line, if the booster actually sees boost the brakes wont work well at all. check the one way valve to ensure it works, and also make sure the booster isnt stuffed and leaking,

as above where is the screaming noise actually comming from and when does it do it, idle, driving, only on boost ?

I have bolted off the hoses so there is no leak. There is no valve what so ever between manifold and brake booster inlet. Will go search around for one, thanks guys.
Scott Black Rising Star

Scott Black

Posted
Posted

No need for an extra valve, the vacuum hose connection at the booster has the non return valve incorporated.

Are you sure the booster was OK prior to the transplant?

not really and easy enough to loose when people swap engines around, unlike alot of other cars the one way valve isnt actually the connection on the booster, yet a little upstream, heres a pic i stole from another sau thread to show it post-132-0-75931100-1371380173.jpg

its the little valve just behind the cap for the master,

however pushing boost into the booster may have damaged it to yet you will find that out when you fit a one way valve

R33 Jared Enthusiast

R33 Jared

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No need for an extra valve, the vacuum hose connection at the booster has the non return valve incorporated.

Are you sure the booster was OK prior to the transplant?

A few years back when I was a red P Plater I switched all the hoses to blue silicon ones. I had almost switched all the silicon hoses back to the genuine black ones except the hose from the brake booster to the intake. I went out into my parts bin, found the original hose (noticed it has a built in valve that the aftermarket ones didn't) and now it's working perfectly. Full boost and brakes! Thanks for the help though, would've had no clue otherwise. Summary is NA pressure doesnt require the valve, turbo does.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...