Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Does anyone know what power level a gtr fuel pump (unsure which model gtr pump it is) in a r33 gtst will support up to? Would 250rwkw be fine?

I think i got ripped off hard by a tuner when i first got my car, he took my new bosch 040 (I think) pump and said he put in a gtr pump instead, he said the bosch one was too big for 180rwkw. Plus he charged me $300

Does anyone know what power level a gtr fuel pump (unsure which model gtr pump it is) in a r33 gtst will support up to? Would 250rwkw be fine?

I think i got ripped off hard by a tuner when i first got my car, he took my new bosch 040 (I think) pump and said he put in a gtr pump instead, he said the bosch one was too big for 180rwkw. Plus he charged me $300

Sure did.............don't go back to that shop. If you do you will eventually end up with a tow away [as he steadily strips parts off your car over time].

I would also question if he did actually put in a gtr pump, have you seen it? Can you be sure?

Dodgy as!!!

Tell us where you are located [generally] and ask for tuners in your area that others use.

Does anyone know what power level a gtr fuel pump (unsure which model gtr pump it is) in a r33 gtst will support up to? Would 250rwkw be fine?

I think i got ripped off hard by a tuner when i first got my car, he took my new bosch 040 (I think) pump and said he put in a gtr pump instead, he said the bosch one was too big for 180rwkw. Plus he charged me $300

LOL dafaq?

Sure did.............don't go back to that shop. If you do you will eventually end up with a tow away [as he steadily strips parts off your car over time].

I would also question if he did actually put in a gtr pump, have you seen it? Can you be sure?

Dodgy as!!!

Tell us where you are located [generally] and ask for tuners in your area that others use.

Yeah i will never go there again. I usually do everything myself and always have a go, but in this case i was impatient and just wanted the car to run right again.

I only took his word for it, the car hasnt had any issues since and i notice the fuel pump is more audible.

I live in melbourne western suburbs. I was planning on getting the car tuned at chequered tuning when i get everything together.

told me to use my petrol up so it would be easier for him to drop the fuel tank. Even though you dont need to to change the fuel pump!

Better if your fuel is low, helps to find the clip and release the slide bracket etc. Plus you can put your hands down in the tank and check how the sock and pump are sitting afterwards.

I had a Nismo pump that got louder and louder over time. Swapped it for a Walbro - one of the new type turbine ones- and can't hardly hear it.

It doesn't annoy me. It is quite loud in the car though. I have tinnitus from years of driving with the fuel pump, exhaust (which is not too loud but does add to the volume) the noisy arse tyres I usually use and the stereo wound up to 95% output to try to hear it over the mechanical din.

Im about to swap a hypergear r34 highflow into my 33 gtst. Ive looked in the hypergear thread for info but there is so much information and i cant really find anything on installation.

I just want to know what to look out for, what parts i will need and should i be replacing the turbo and manifold gaskets? And if anyone can link me to info or a tutorial that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

It will pretty much bolt straight up with the braided oil line hg supplies you with. one of the water lines has to be slightly manipulated into place. Other than that it is 100% bolt on. It would be wise to replace all the gaskets and even exhaust manifold studs while you're there. I decided not too replace the studs on mine, a few months later a couple of them snapped and I had to do the whole job again. It's well worth taking the extra time and spending that little bit more and getting it done right so you don't have dramas later on.

Doing the water lines back up can be ugly too if you can't get the bolt in on 90 degree angle

easier if you just get a braided line to replace the one closer to the engine, so you just have to manipulate the angle of the turbo to do up the outer one closer to the strut tower

and yes change all the bolts and gaskets, rest is straight forward

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
    • I've got MCA Blues on my V36 Skyline, and while I've managed to sort out issues with scrubbing/bottoming out by raising it a smidge and increasing the damping hardness, the rear end still sounds *super* noisy when driving on anything other than the flattest surface imaginable. It sounds like a small party of flamingos are just chatting away in the back, which makes me think there are several link points in the suspension contributing to the noise. Am I hearing dried out/worn bushings? None of it sounds like metal-on-metal, it sounds more like hard rubber squeaking on metal. It's been suggested that a bit of silicon spray on each bushing might quiet them down, but I'm not sure what material the current bushings are made of (probably factory, I imagine) and whether silicon spray will degrade that material.
    • The obvious answer here is get a ND2/3 RF with the Targa top. The red is nicer, too!
×
×
  • Create New...