Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Up for sale are my FORGE FR-10 DC, 19x10 +28, 5 x 114.3, 3 piece wheels.

These are some of the best qaulity wheels around.

They are forged wheels using T6061 Billet & made California USA.

I haven't seen another set around, apart from on FORGE's website.

New, these wheels cost in excess of $8000.

These wheels have a very unique look with a deep concave centre which looks like it is suspended on the inside of the wheel. All hardware is hidden on the inside for a simple/clean finish. They come with matching billet centre caps for each rim with the company logo machined on them.

These were a completely custom built set of wheels for my R32 gtr and have had very little use.

If you would like more info about these spectacular wheels just jump on there website, Instagram or Facebook page.

www.forge-wheels.com

www.facebook.com/forgewheels.

Asking $4000 with 265/30 tyres, I am open to reasonable offers or swaps and cash my way.

image_zps02fdegrw.jpeg

image_zpssbyfsnfn.jpeg

image_zpstayo5ui8.jpeg

Cheers All.

Edited by AE71GZE
  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...

Sorry for the late reply @Terry_GT-R34 a FORGE 19 x 10 with 3" of concave weighs approx. 12.5KG. These wheels are fully forged and 100% built in the USA using the best technology and materials available.

Hope this helps.

 

Kind regards,

Tye.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...