Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I have my eye on a front cut from a 2000 stagea and would like some information regarding the difference between the RB25DETs in them and the ones found in R34s.

I have been told that because they are auto, they have less power. Is that just a simple tuning problem cos they're auto?? Or is there more to it??

How hard are they RB25DETs out of the stagea's to transplant into a manual R34?? I know that you need to change the sump and oil pickup, and that the loom is different. Can anyone expand on this?? Is there an easy way to get around these problems??

Thanks in advance,

Brett

Hey Brett,

The RB25det in the R34 Skyline is the NEO version, VVT type. I have a 97 mod staj with the r33 type 25 motor. The reason that they are not as quick is a simple weight issue. The Staj is a bit of a porker carrying 1650kg dry. How much is fcut?? Are you trying to change the R34 into a 4wd?? Big job!

Cheers m8,

Ken

The front cut also has the NEO version of the RB25DET. I am looking to transplant this into my RWD R34 and need to know of any hassles before hand, so that I can deal with them quickly and get my car on the road ASAP.

I know that to transform the cut from AWD to RWD, you need to change the sump and pickup, but other than that I have not been able to source any other information. Any ideas??

Anyone?? :confused:

  • 3 weeks later...

i have a stagea engine in my r33 gts4 and it is exactly the same as a rb25det, except that the sump you will have to change because of the 4wd drivetrain in the stageas',loom you can get away with the standard one because i think the stagea loom has the fwd linked into it. im actually taking my stagea engine out and selling it if you interested, because im putting a rb25det in so ill swap the sump myself... pm me if your interested

Thanks specialk,

I already have a stagea engine (Neo RB25DET) that is going in on Wednesday. Thanks for the info on the loom, too. I have heard that it shouldn't be a hard swap, but needed to know if there was any major differences i.e incompatible wiring harnesses etc.

What was your reason for swapping from the Stagea RB25DET to another RB25DET??

i work with boostd (the one who's car got written off) and we are throwing his engine into my car. just had more work done to it.

you are converting your car to RWD? or was his a 4wd rb25det as well?

as far as im aware, the 2wd sump will bolt onto the 4wd block, but not the reverse

Yes. Apparently the 2WD sump bolts onto the 4WD engine but not the other way around. I hope so cos I need to transform the stagea cut from 4WD to RWD.

Does anyone know what differences there are in the wiring harnesses for the stagea RB25DET and the R34?? As much info as possible would be great!!

the 2wd uses a different set of "bolt holes" in the block for attaching the sump

the 4wd block has 2 sets(to suit 4 and 2), the 2wd only has the holes it needs (i think)

Correct :D

  • 3 weeks later...

Seems like a waste of a perfectly good 4WD engine. They are hard enough to come by at the best of times , without ppl converting them to RWD only. I just transplanted one into my R32 GTS4, because it's the only upgrade (short of a 26).

Why not let some poor soul with a R33 GTS4 use it for his upgrade? You can use any RB25DET in a GTS / GTSt.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...