Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok something's up with my 'Line....

Sunday night driving home from work i gave the car a workout in 1st gear. Upon hitting near full boost, the car made a horrible banging (backfiring sort of sound) and to the best of my memory seemed as if it was hitting fuel cut. This was at only about 5000rpm (if that). I thought id put the exhaust wheel out through the pipes.. However the turbo still spools up as it ever did. Accerleration seems to be unchanged.

Tonight i drove the car out of the carpark and gave it a bit of curry (still cautious of the prob from the other night). Again it made that backfiring type of banging/clunking sound as it was approaching full boost. I tried it again a few mins later and it did the same thing again. Scary sound. In 4th gear under full acceleration it did it as badly as when in 1st gear.

Now the last time i tried it in 4th i managed to see the boost gauge bouncing on and off 15psi. I have a dual stage boost controller (bleed valve) which is set at 12psi (low - which i drive on) and 14psi (high).... As i understand it, seeing 15psi would mean the boost is spiking due to manual b/c having poor wastegate control?

What could the problem be? Why would it be spiking now, when in 12mths of having the b/c fitted ive only seen it spike by 1psi when on high-setting?

Could there be a more serious problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/46542-problems-with-r32-gtst-please-help/
Share on other sites

when you changed your boost controller did you change ALL hoses? coz mine did the same thing once with a cracked hose on the underside, so i only found it once half the motor was on the drive way. solved my problem. post again with results and anything else you know of so we can all help.

No, i didnt replace anything extra at all.....

I havent had any other dramas and like i say ive had it installed for a year no probs...

im getting a service thursday anyway so ill get my mechanic to check it out - but sometimes it's better to hear from people who may have experienced the same things....

like i say it seems as though my fuel cut is intervening for some reason, possibly due to it spiking.... but why would it spike?

  • 2 weeks later...
No, i didnt replace anything extra at all.....

I havent had any other dramas and like i say ive had it installed for a year no probs...

im getting a service thursday anyway so ill get my mechanic to check it out - but sometimes it's better to hear from people who may have experienced the same things....

like i say it seems as though my fuel cut is intervening for some reason, possibly due to it spiking.... but why would it spike?

i had a simliar prob a few weeks ago as soon as i hit boost the car bakfired and a huge black smoke came out the zorst i thought i had dont a motor anyway i looked under the bonnet and and found that the crank angle wire wasnt plugged in properly due to me unplugging it the nite b4 while at the movies ....pushed it in no probs since so try that see how u go

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
    • your right the maps for Australia came out in 2017 but are 2010 maps. i got the updated maps SD card put it in and it was the same. Same maps in my Brothers Nissan Patrol. 2020 i think his car is
    • Yeahhhh, the costs have killed me. Spent more than the cost of an engine rebuild and it most mostly servicing and a tune lol.
×
×
  • Create New...