Jump to content
SAU Community

Haltech air temp sensor install threw out tune

Murray_Calavera
 Share

Recommended Posts

Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
Posted

Hi all,

I've got a r33gtst with a haltech platinum plug in, today I installed an air temp sensor and it seems like the car is running rich now. I don't understand why it would affect the tune when both timing and fuel correction is disabled for the air temp sensor. 

What I've done is, deleted the MAF, wired up the MAF signal and signal ground to the air temp sensor and re-pined the MAF signal to the air temp sensor signal on the ECU connector. The air temp sensor seems to be working perfectly. 

Unfortunately I don't have a wideband so can't say for sure that it's running rich, but there are flat-spots everywhere now and the popping and crackling on decel are a bit louder now so my guess is its running rich. 

The car is tuned on VE and I had deleted the MAF ages ago so I know that's not the issue. If anyone could shed some light on this it would be much appreciated!  

Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Did some more reading online, seems like people are tapping the MAF ground into the coolant sensor ground. Doesn't make sense to me needing to tap a ground into a ground but I did it anyway... Still didn't fix anything. 

Pulled the air temp sensor out and it's all back to normal again. I'm out of ideas. 

Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I'm using the, I guess you could call it 'standard' delphi air temp sensor. The ecu picked it up straight away as its using the factory GTR air temp sensor wiring now, I checked the main setup for inputs and there was already values there for the air temp sensor. It is a pretty liner table from 0.5 volts (120 degrees C) to 4.47 voles (17 degrees C). Do I still need to change this?

I still think it's really weird that its affecting the tune though. I thought it would only affect the tune if I enabled the correction tables?

Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Umm from memory it was sitting around 45-50 degrees when idling in traffic and got down to low 40's when driving around. Does that sound right for stock turbo (10psi) and stock sidemount? I wasn't brave enough to push it hard as the tune felt terrible. 

HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
Posted

Does pipe is correct (see #3 below) but I wanted to add two other things:

1) Get a wideband - ASAP. I am running their CANBUS. In all honesty it makes no sense to have spent this much on a Haltech and not have the wideband. It opens SO many more tuning and safety options that you don't have now and I would say this is CRITICAL for any standalone.

2) I also used a AFM wire back to the ecu for one of my sensors and just repinned at the ECU so there is not an issue there unless you crossed some voltage (but it sounds like you didn't because you are at least getting "normal" values).

3) Did the R33 GTST not have an air temp sensor? If not, then surely the ECU was assuming some value for this input in it's calculations of air density (air temp is one of the calculations). Basically they were assuming air temp didn't change I guess? If this is the case and you ADDED a sensor where one didn't previously exist, and you added it as an input (properly) and scaled it (properly) then you will need to retune the car for sure to match the ACTUAL air temp.

 

A final FYI. My air temp sensor is zero mapped up until around 120-130F and down to 50F. Meaning it only changes the tune on fuel % added above or below those values respectively.

Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Point 3 makes sense about giving the car an actual input vs it's previously assumed ones (GTST's don't have air temp sensors). I just thought it would carry on as it was previously, using the assumed figures, if I didn't activate the correction tables. 

I agree about the wideband, it's very high on the priority list. My poor R33 has a few other things to fix first but I'll get it before I add any real performance mods (currently all I have is a cat-back & a bit more boost).

 

Dose Pipe Sutututu Grand Master

Dose Pipe Sutututu

Posted
Posted

those temps appear some what "correct", if the car is doing other stuff then there is some other correction being applied.. because the factory haltech base map only shaves timing and pulls out fuel above 70 degrees Celsius...

you need a wideband!

HarrisRacing Proficient

HarrisRacing

Posted
Posted

Another quick test is to pull logs of injector duty cycles (or time) at known values to see what it is doing when you run the old way with no IAT vs the new way with IAT mapped. At least this could get you back quasi on target running. Nice thing about a wideband are the added protection in the engine protection menu. I set my car so that it will protect the engine (raise fuel % and lower boost) when I'm 12.5 AFR or higher over 15 psi. This will eliminate any potential fuel pump failures from giving me issues there.

I'm quite confident it's changing the map somehow.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...