Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I've had a weakened door lock actuator for a while in my R34 sedan, meaning that one of the doors had to be locked manually each time, not ideal. 
I managed to chase down the replacement part from the wreckers and finally got around to replacing it.

This is not a full DIY but here's the general outline, mostly as a note to self for next time:

  1. For instructions on how to remove the inside door panel go here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/285604-tutorial-r34-gtt-door-panel-removal-guide/ . That guide is for a coupe but sedan front door is very similar. Note to disconnect the window switch plug, push in the clip on the underside of it
  2. Remove plastic lining inside the door. Take care with the gooey black glue, it spreads easily and sticks everywhere.
  3. Remove rectangular metal brace from the door (4 screws) to give better access to the inside of the door end.
  4. Remove the bottom screw of the window slide/guide and jiggle it out of the door.
  5. There are a lot of mechanical arms (thick wire looking things) going everywhere, they are the fun part of this puzzle. Most of them disconnect the same way: At each end, rotate the plastic clip thing to the side first to release it, then pull the end of the arm out of the hole. Remember there are two ends to each arm – only disconnect the easier end, not both.
  6. The door lock/actuator assembly is held in place by the three large screws at the edge of the door where the latch is.
  7. To get the assembly out you'll need to rotate is slightly to get it out of the O-loop in the door lock arm coming down from the top.
  8. I'm pretty sure there's a wiring connector for actuator but I got over excited with wire cutters so oh well.
  9. Once you've got the assembly out you can replace the actuator only, or the whole assembly, depending on what you have. 
  10. To re-assemble, follow the steps in reverse. Make sure you put every single arm back the same way.
  11. Test everything before you put the door panel back on: door handle and locking mechanism inside and out, central locking on/off, window up/down. Note that for the window to work you'll have to reconnect the window switch plug.

It took me a while to work out that the window slide/guide needed to come out of the way first. Generally it's an easy job, just fiddly.

  • Like 2
  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...

So the passenger door lock is playing up again, annoying. I just pulled it apart but can't see anything wrong; it's a convoluted mechanism but all the arms seem to be connected correctly.

I'm not sure if my replacement actuator is a dud (or just old), or whether there's something else wrong with the mechanism. It seems like the actuator doesn't 'trigger' consistently when the central locking is engaged or disengaged. I wonder if it could be a power/wiring fault...?

Anyone else had this issue in their R34, any suggestions? 

  • 3 months later...

Hey man, yeah I accidentally found my front passenger door in my 4 door r4 was not locking or unlocking it I pushed the locking tab inside the car. I stripped the door car off the stumbled across your walkthrough which I must say is very good and easy to follow! My actuator doesn't seem to move much and sometimes only one way, is this what you had? My mechanism seems tough too though but I've blasted it with silicone spray.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power steering is probably because someone has nuked the HICAS CU and you no longer have the variable power asist doing what it is supposed to. How much boost are you running? You are aware that any more than 10 psi on the stock ECU is just asking for it to go to full R&R (that's Rich & Retard, which is effectively Retarded and Retarded!) which kills all the power. Depending on the exact conditions, it can just be runnign on the fat and stupid end of the maps, then the conditions change, you make a little more boost and the ECU goes into panic.
    • @BuiltNotBought Just as GTSboy said.   If you want driveabilty and more low down torque..keep the stock runners. They are VERY good from a factory. I have them too on my RB25DET NEO and as a GTSboy i have fmic but with stock piping route(i have Blitz intercooler) Iam making around 320 BHP and the car pulls "hard" from like 2,5k all the way to 7k. I have it dyno tuned to mimic N/A power curve and making little less max torque due to the smallbox tranny. But driveability is very great. I had 350Nm below 3k so car feels very quick.   EDIT:  Not my channel but i saw this and i know that is what i want (and i have exactly this)  
    • Looking to sort out a couple of issues on my skyline  It recently was rebuilt, however rebuilder long story short did not give two flying effs about the work he did. So moving forward it's running but I have two persistent issues 1) it has a misfire / lag type of issue (was at higher RPMs but I had a dead piggy back ecu removed which improved it) now it's not as bad but still does it at random, I thought it may have been a boost issue I'm running an older turbosmart dual stage controller, turbosmart told me to try running off gate pressure however it still has a lag at random times. It has New MAF, maf plug, coil packs, sparks, CP harness.. injectors tested and cleaned. Factory ECU. 2) Power steering issue. It is tight as anything. Flushed power steering, rebuilt my pump because the bearing was shot. Flushed again still tight (mainly when parking and going slow into my driveway etc)  No kinks in hard lines, replaced the lines I could see had cracks. Still tough to steer.  I was told to shim a coin and place into the solenoid plug? Is there anything else. My steering angle sensor also has a issue. It's a used one I replaced, does it need to be calibrated? I feel like I've tried everything and this car is my voodoo doll.   
    • Holy shit... wow!!! I totally missed this
    • One main filter. Each tank has a prefilter to keep rocks and small children out, then the big main filter that also does water separation. Clogged the first one so bad it was like a rev limiter at 3200rpm. Literally just like dropping the throttle off and maintaining rpm!
×
×
  • Create New...