L0N3S0MER4NG3R

so ended up borrowing my mates link g4 cable and turns out i have a link g4+, i logged a drive and when it died the map sensor went nuts, wiggled the wires and away it went again. just cut the wiring out and redo it? screenshots from moment it died (it was running normal in the first photo) Log 2017-09-21 12;55;58 pm.llg

Yeah i know, i've been trying to stay away from chopping part out and putting new wiring in

heres a few screenshots for people that dont have the link program

This is my log file of the fault happening from 2.30 -1.10 mins from the end map sensor limit was reached and it read 383 KPA, 4.6V on the map sensor. this was as i was at traffic lights stopped. Help appreciated thanks Log 2017-09-21 12;55;58 pm.llg

R34 25DET NEO dies map sensor reads high until lead is wiggled then will drive fine Is running a link g4+ and a 4bar map sensor, after awhile of driving the car will turn off, I have logged it and found that when it dies the map sensor gives a huge reading which I am guessing is incorrect and the car is flooding or shutting off to protect the engine. How do I go about finding the fault from what I can see the wires look fine

Will try that tomorrow and let you know how it goes

Hi, have brought one this week but wanted to check everything simple first, is there anything I need to do or can o just mark where it is pull it off and throw a new one in the same way

I am running a link g4 ecu, but don't have a cable so can't see what's happening with it at the moment. Don't need to bypass the coolant sensor as I believe it's working fine, I just logged what happend around then

Sorry forgot to add it won't start for awhile usually after this as if it s to cool down. It's not everytime I stop just at random once warm

The ecu sensor (two wire)

RB25DET NEO stalls once its warm Hey guys my RB25det R34 has recently developed a problem where the car decides to stall once it is warm, this tends to be when i am at traffic lights stopped or crawling pace, has also happened when ive been in the lower rev range but i have found that so long as i keep the revs above 3k rpm it doesnt happen. i have checked coolant temp resistances and they all look about right when cold its 3250 ohms and warm 230 ohms. The wires to the o2 sensor have been cut for as long as ive owned the car and worked fine for 2 months then started this problem so key points, -Dies once warm -Coolant temp sensor looks good -seems to be fine with higher revs car specs: STOCK RB25DET NEO with fmic, turbosmart bov to atmosphere, link g4 ecu Thanks in advance

Hey man, yeah I accidentally found my front passenger door in my 4 door r4 was not locking or unlocking it I pushed the locking tab inside the car. I stripped the door car off the stumbled across your walkthrough which I must say is very good and easy to follow! My actuator doesn't seem to move much and sometimes only one way, is this what you had? My mechanism seems tough too though but I've blasted it with silicone spray.