Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Recently got my first Skyline,R33 Gtst S1.. noticed a few problems with it.

First, when driving along a bumpy or uneven road the back end will dip and wobble a bit, feeling soft for a second.. it only does that on bumps and is fine in a straight line or around corners.. Never had anything with HICAS so dont know if thats it..

2nd typical miss fire problems under load usually between 2.5-3k rpm..

3rd ciggy port doesnt work, fuses seam fine.

And laslty had a crack in the radiator appear last night, noticed coolant steaming out and pulled over asap. That needs replacing and x2 belts (1 demolished completely)..

Any advice or help would be massively appreaciated on the trouble shooting.. cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466181-r33-driving-wobble/
Share on other sites

You need to list the mods.

eg If you are using a hiflow turbo and no a/m ECU then the miss at 3K is R and R.

ciggy port???= lighter?? probably need to take the dash apart and check the wiring is OK.

Suspension wobble, no idea sorry.  Jack it up and check that no bolts or other stuff is broken.

 

 

not sure what mods yet.. lowered 1" i know that much. Aftermarket Trust induction pipe to turbo.. everything else looks to be factory.
Ciggy port is lighter port yes.. Wiring seams to be good, cant find any faults on that so far.
The wobble may be the HICAS, but will jack it up and have a look over the weekend..

I get a similar wobble on certain rough surfaces in my R34. It really doesnt like all the roadwork thats been done on the M4 Motorway. The bumps and irregularities at 80+ kmh seem to give mine that feel too. But normal roads no problem. I am at standard height but run 265 tyres all round. I assume its the HICAS......Lock bar will be on my shopping list soon

Might look at the same thing myself.. Driving to Windsor heading down Stoney Creek Road, the bump and uneven surface makes the back end feel loose and not very "safe".
Got a few things to do on her this weekend.. Changing the belts over, water pump, thermo, and Radiator.  Check the back end for any play in the wheels and look over the bushings ect..
If that all goes well, possibly disable the HICAS and take it for a drive to see if that is the problem.. if it is then Lock bar for me.
Anyone know a good wreckers? Want to pick up an R34 standard spoiler later on's.

  • 3 weeks later...

mechanics had a look over it and got a prybar into the back control arms.. there is a bit of movement in the bushings so replacing them and seeing if it fixes.. will have him look at the rear hub bolts also Joey

  • 1 year later...

Touching back in,
The issue was the camber angle.  The guy i bought the car off had it right out causing the inside edge to wear quickly.
On average i was going through a set of tires every few months.
Had the alignment set back to the factory spec .5' and havent had any issues with it in 12 + months

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...