Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have had my 2001 GT300 (here in Australia) since 2013. During that time, the VDC dash light remains on permanently and my engine light never comes on even on ignition.

When I had problems with oxygen sensor, neither independent mechanic or Nissan mechanic could source the cause of these problems or the Nissan Error Code PO650 which is described as 'MIL/CIRC.'  I am hoping that someone has come across these problems and error before who will let me know so I can finally work out what to do. Thank you,

I would say thank you but for your sarcasm that was simply not necessary, typical macho/ego 'man' eh?

As the Nissan mechanic told me he searched everywhere and made calls I again made the stupid mistake of trusting I was being told the truth, stupid.... stupid.....

 

Never trust anything until you can see it for yourself............

I didn't think Cal was being overly sarcastic, just a bit of tough love, and you should probably take this as a valuable lesson.  Try the internet, then try searching on SAU, then ask.  And don't forget, at least he took the time to answer you.  I bet you won't forget now!!!

Oh and I'd change mechanics while I was at it:cool:

 

 

 

 

I'd start with checking the bulb, it's likely missing or burned out, and it's possible VDC comes on because the MIL globe is not working (since you obviously can't show a failure of the MIL light using the MIL light).  So best case, nothing is wrong at all except that.  I take it there is no sign of any problem except the lights and the P0650 using the scan tool.

And Callan thanks for the link, I never realised OBD codes were common (although it makes sense, since they are designed to allow non manufacturers to service cars).  I assume not all codes are common to all cars though because many cars have specific or even unique functions.

I would say thank you but for your sarcasm that was simply not necessary, typical macho/ego 'man' eh?

As the Nissan mechanic told me he searched everywhere and made calls I again made the stupid mistake of trusting I was being told the truth, stupid.... stupid.....

 



This site is not for people to do the work for you, it is to get help. It takes less time to search than to create a thread, and you already had all the information you needed. Maybe it was a bit harsh, but in fairness, it was the first or second result on google on my first search attempt

You'd be surprised what you can find on google

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
    • I saw your intro update, are you sure you've actually had a starter motor failure? You mention it could be the alarm causing it. I'm assuming you've got a no start issue, but what are the exact symptoms, as there could be a few reasons it has stopped wanting to start.
×
×
  • Create New...