Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, just wondering what car I should get. As I'm a 16 year old on his L's I am very eager to get my first car, however I'm in to many JDM cars. There is a problem however it's not the money issue, it's my parents. I have a part time job to pay for half my car which my parents are going pitch in for the other half however everytime I bring up a car I like which being a r33 (skylines in general), s chassis (even though you have to be lucky to find a non modded one) and many other cool cars, they respond with no it's been thrashed or etc. What could I do to get one of my dream cars? 

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466410-first-car/
Share on other sites

Buy a little Swift then learn how to drive, learn the road rules and gain confidence on the road with other road users.

Don't go out and pay top dollar for a car that you'll more than likely write off after a fully sick handbrake in your local KFC drive throu. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466410-first-car/#findComment-7769776
Share on other sites

yeah but what's nicer to drive ?

a pulsar, a swift or an R33 ?

plus you'll probably see all Skylines rising in value over the next decade due to the ongoing demand

there's quite a few seriously dedicated Skyline wreckers in Sydney now building and selling cars

I just heard an R34 GTR V Spec Nur sold for $500000 in Japan

If you were 16 again with todays cars, could you settle for a piece of shit Suzuki

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466410-first-car/#findComment-7769972
Share on other sites

Is that a trick question? Pulsar is better to drive than a 33 lol. Better turning circle, cheaper fuel/insurance/parts/servicing etc.
Get in a prang? Yolo go to wreckers and pick a different colour rh fender for 50 bux.

If I was 16 again I would get a sss pulsar.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466410-first-car/#findComment-7769974
Share on other sites

Is that a trick question? Pulsar is better to drive than a 33 lol. Better turning circle, cheaper fuel/insurance/parts/servicing etc.
Get in a prang? Yolo go to wreckers and pick a different colour rh fender for 50 bux.

If I was 16 again I would get a sss pulsar.



Ha ha ha.....yeah if I was 16 again I would definitely be chasing the better turning circle. That would be at the top of any teenager's shopping list.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466410-first-car/#findComment-7769982
Share on other sites

Thanks fellas! I have thought about it and do you guys have any knowledge or have experiences with a KE70 or even an old r31? Might go something but older however not sure how reliable they are. Especially because my dad doesn't really want me to get a car with over 200,000kms haha. I'm probably leaning towards a ke70 now but I not sure if the engines are weak as piss or are bulletproof. If so are the belts and gaskets going to last a long time on them?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466410-first-car/#findComment-7769986
Share on other sites

Don't worry man, when I was 16 I wanted 'street cred' (aka the decent designed cars). I am guessing you're in NSW, thus not allowed turbo. You can get non turbo R34 GT's. Sedan or coupe, maybe if you can convince them into a Sedan, it might be easier to win them over.

But to answer your question which everyone else has seemed to fail at.

some non turbo options:

R32 (Coupe/Sedan)
R33 (Coupe/Sedan)
R34 (Coupe/Sedan)
Supra (non turbo)
R31
RX8 (dare I say)
S chassis
350z

Good luck.

 

p.s it's not hard to drive - just don't be an idiot.
 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466410-first-car/#findComment-7770090
Share on other sites

Most R31s would be around 300,000km lol. But they're easy to fix, cheap and reliable if maintained. The 3L has plenty of torque to get you into trouble.

But, I'd go with something nice to putt around in until I get full license. Something like an Accord or Prelude or Maxima. Or a good condition Subaru.

I got over rattly, noisy cars fairly quickly.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466410-first-car/#findComment-7770309
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...