Jump to content
SAU Community

T28 rear housing size & Hi flowed ?

Kei_ayanami

By Kei_ayanami,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Kei_ayanami Contributor

Kei_ayanami

Posted
Posted
T28 rear housing size & Hi flowed ?

Hey guys I'm trying to find out what rear housing size my turbo is but can't seem to find the right info. 

I've got a 200sx - s15 with which I believe still has the factory t28 bush bearing turbo. Does anyone know what the rear housing size is not sure if its the .64 or .86 or I could be wrong all together...... anyways any help  would be appreciated. 

Also Has anyone had any experienced with Hi flowed turbos ?. Correct me if I'm wrong but from what I understand Hi flowing the t28 will mean that it will still spool at the same rpm as it is stock but just makes more boost compared it in stock form at the same rpm for e.g. 

Stock                 Hi flow

 2000rpm          2000rpm
=5psi                 =7psi

and so on wards ?

Does it also mean that the t28 will hold boost right upto redline as well?. 
Are there any downsides or things to worry about when Hi flowing?.


Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466572-t28-rear-housing-size-hi-flowed/
Share on other sites
Murray_Calavera Mentor

Murray_Calavera

Posted
Posted

Hey mate,

The rear housing size will be stamped on the housing, easiest way to confirm. Our cars don't tend to stay stock for long, I'd just have a look to see if any previous owners have changed things up. 

With regards to the high flowing, you haven't quite got the right idea of how it works. Maybe the easiest way to think about it is, when you high flow you'll have a slightly bigger turbo in the same size package. 

Essentially the way it works, the housing is machined out to allow a bigger CHRA to be fitted. The size of CHRA that can be fitted will be based on how much can be safely machined out of the housing. Other upgrades can be made at the same time, such as ceramic wheels to steel wheels, ball bearing core, etc 

'Holding boost to redline'... it's a bit ambiguous, I'm sure the factory turbo can hold factory boost til redline, if you see what I mean. To try and answer your question though, a falling boost curve can be due to a number of reasons such as the turbo falling out of it's efficiency range. If you do a bit of reading on compressor maps and how to interpret them, this should help you answer your question on if X turbo can hold the boost you want. 

Downsides or things to worry about? Hmm pros: ease of fitment. Cons: you'll probably want a bigger turbo soon lol. 

Hope some of this helps. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
×
×
  • Create New...