Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have this really annoying problem with my auto R32 Gts-t. It only happens when switching from light throttle to no throttle at low speeds. For example, driving in traffic or in a shopping center car park (just tapping the accelerator). As soon as I release throttle, it starts hunting and hesitating, gets all jerky, then snaps back into normal idling.

It only happens at light throttle, any ideas?

I've check the TPS. I'm getting proper voltage readings, approx. 0.5v closed and 4.0v WOT, and switches between throttle open and closed properly... Is it possible the TPS is at fault even if it's giving proper readings?

What else could cause this issue?

Thanks heaps.

Edited by rayj

I would have pointed the TPS but you checked it already. 

Isn't the tps for auto different than the manual one ? I think it should have an idle and WOT contact on the TPS as well.

Otherwise dirty maf sensor maybe.

The variable voltage output on the RB20 TPS is only used by the transmission's CU.  The ECU knows nothing about it.  The ECU looks only at the closed throttle position switch.  The very best way to make sure that an RB20 has the TPS adjusted correctly is to use your hand on the bellcrank* to just crack the throttle open the tiniest amount.  What you want to happen is the switch to change state at almost no movement in the throttle at all.  You will hear the injectors double fire (which is what the RB20 ECU does when it sees the throttle switch change at idle).  Basically the sound of the injectors clicking just speeds up to double rate for something like 2 rotations of the engine (ie <1/2 a second).

The single most likely thing that is wrong with your engine is that the throttle body and/or the idle control valve are full of grunge and need a clean. The idle control valve being the most likely.  What is happening is that when the IACV is dirty the stepper motor on it struggles to make it move fast enough to change position.  When you are running with the throttle open, the IACV is too closed to run the engine at the right speed.  When you then close  the throttle the revs drop low while the IACV tries to open up.

You need to dismantle it and soak it in carby cleaner, give everything a good scrub and put it back together/on.

Thanks for your help. The Throttle body was taken off the car, cleaned thoroughly, then mounted back on with new gasket and torqued to spec. Much the same the entire AAC unit, completely soaked and cleaned thoroughly.

The problem still exists

I've checked for vacuum leaks, cleaned the AFM and tried resetting the TPS again. Same problem continues...

What I've noticed with the TPS, if I test it with Consult without the engine running, everything looks good. Closed throttle is approx. 0.5v and throttle switch is closed. As soon as throttle is opened, throttle switch changes to open, and throttle position will gradually rise to approx. 4.0v WOT.

However, as soon as I start the car, the throttle switch will immediately move from closed to open even though the throttle hasn't been touched (it's closed).

So then I adjust the TPS accordingly while the car is running, so that throttle switch open/closed occurs at the right time, all looks good, but the problem still persists.

This doesn't seem right, the output should be the same no matter if in the ON position or engine running. Why is the closed throttle value changing between ON and engine running?

The throttle will either be rotating a little because of air flowing across it, or possibly there is bearing slop and it is just moving in some other direction under the force of the flowing air which turns up as a change in the TPS.  Ultimately it doesn't matter what the TPS says when the engine is off.

to get the correct contact position for the throttle...

warm up engine, disconnect AAC valve connector, rev engine to 2000 then slowly ease off the peddle until the idle switch light illuminates to indicate throttle closed position, taking note of the revs the exact moment the closed position light comes on, this should be 950RPM +- 150RPM if it is not then adjust to suite. This why the tps voltage specifies 0.4 to 0.5 Volts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, after the full circus this week (new gearbag, 14 psi actuator on, injectors and AFM upgraded, and.....turbo repair) the diagnosis on the wastegate is in. It was broken. It was broken in a really strange way. The weld that holds the lever arm onto the wastegate flapper shaft broke. Broke completely, but broke in such a way that it could go back together in the "correct" position, or it could rearrange itself somewhere else along the fracture plane and sit with the flapper not parallel to the lever. So, who knows how and when exactly what happened? No-one will ever know. Was it broken like this the first time it spat the circlip and wedged itself deep into the dump? Or was it only broken when I tried to pry it back into place? (I didn't try that hard, but who knows?). Or did it break first? Or did it break between the first and second event of wierdness? Meh. It doesn't matter now. It is welded back together. And it is now held closed by a 14 psi actuator, so...the car has been tuned with the supporting mods (and the order of operations there is that the supporting mods and dyno needed to be able to be done first before adding boost, because it was pinging on <<14 psi with the new turbo with only a 6 psi actuator). And then tuned up a bit, and with the boost controller turned off throughout that process. So it was only running WG pressure and so only hit about 15-16 psi. The turbo is still ever so slightly lazier than might be preferred - like it is still a bit on the big side for the engine. I haven't tested it on the road properly in any way - just driven it around in traffic for a half hour or so. But it is like chalk and cheese compared to what it was. Between dyno numbers and driving feedback: It makes 100 kW at 3k rpm, which is OK, could be better. That's stock 2JZ territory, or RB20 with G series 550. It actually starts building boost from 2k, which is certainly better than it did recently (with all the WG flapper bullshit). Although it's hard to remember what it was like prior to all that - it certainly seems much, much better. And that makes sense, given the WG was probably starting to blow open at anything above about 3 psi anyway (with the 6 psi actuator). It doesn't really get to "full boost" (say 16 psi) until >>4k rpm. I am hopeful that this is a feature of the lack of boost controller keeping boost pressure off the actuator, because it was turned off for the dyno and off for the drives afterward. There's more to be found here, I'm sure. It made 230 rwkW at not a lot more than 6k and held it to over 7k, so there seems to be plenty of potential to get it up to 250-260rwkW with 18 psi or so, which would be a decent effort, considering the stock sized turbo inlet pipework and AFM, and the return flow cooler. According to Tao, those things should definitely put a bit of a limit on it by that sort of number. I must stress that I have not opened the throttle 100% on the road yet - well, at least not 100% and allowed it to wind all the way up. It'll have to wait until some reasonable opportunity. I'm quite looking forward to that - it feels massively better than it has in a loooong time. It's back to its old self, plus about 20% extra powers over the best it ever did before. I'm going to get the boost controller set up to maximise spool and settle at no more than ~17 psi (for now) and then go back on the dyno to see what we can squeeze out of it. There is other interesting news too. I put together a replacement tube to fit the R35 AFM in the stock location. This is the first time the tuner has worked with one, because anyone else he has tuned for has gone from Z32 territory to aftermarket ECU. No-one has ever wanted to stay Nistuned and do what I've done. Anyway, his feedback is that the R35 AFM is super super super responsive. Tiny little changes in throttle position or load turn up immediately as a cell change on the maps. Way, way more responsive than any of the old skool AFMs. Makes it quite diffifult to tune as you have to stay right on top of that so you don't wander off the cell you wanted to tune. But it certainly seems to help with real world throttle response. That's hard to separate from all the other things that changed, but the "pedal feel" is certainly crisp.
    • I'm a bit confused by this post, so I'll address the bit I understand lol.  Use an air compressor and blow away the guide coat sanding residue. All the better if you have a moisture trap for your compressor. You'd want to do this a few times as you sand the area, you wouldn't for example sand the entire area till you think its perfect and then 'confirm' that is it by blowing away the guide coat residue.  Sand the area, blow away the guide coat residue, inspect the panel, back to sanding... rinse and repeat. 
    • The detail level is about right for the money they charge for the full kit... AU$21.00 each issue, 110 issues for a total of $2,300 (I mentioned $2.2K in the first post when the exchange rate was better). $20/week is doable... 😐
    • If planning on joining us for the day(s) please indicate by filling in this form. https://forms.gle/Ma8Nn4DzYVA8uDHg7
    • You put the driver's seat on the wrong side! Incredible detail on all of this. It looks like you could learn a lot about the car just from assembling the kit.
×
×
  • Create New...