Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R33 GTST HICAS problems

Hi guys. I got an issue with my 1994 s1 R33 GTST's hicas.

If I drive over 80km/h the hicas light will be turned on, then I will randomly lose power steering on next start.  It is becoming more and more often recently.

I tried to enter hicas diagnose mode to see what is wrong. However, to my surprise, my r33 cannot enter diagnose mode. I followed this post but nothing happened.  http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/22193-hicas-diagnostic/

Here is my guess. My boss kit seems to be a normal boss kit that does not come with hicas. So when the hicas system kicks in, it cannot detect the steering wheel. Then the hicas light is turned on and I got heavy steering. This guess can also explain why my R33 cannot enter diagnose mode, I think.

 

Can anyone give me some idea? Will the boss kit cause this issue or something else?

 

Btw does anyone know some cheap skyline specialist in Melbourne?

 

I am not a native English speaker. So please do not mind my mistakes. Thanks guys.

 

 

Edited by Michael33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/466954-r33-gtst-hicas-problem/
Share on other sites

Did the problem start after you installed the aftermarket steering boss?

HICAS relies on a steering angle input to function correctly, if you've recently installed a steering boss which does is not compatible with HICAS it will cause the HICAS ECU to go into 'safe mode' which results in the heavy steering and warning light on the dash.

  • Like 2

It is really sensitive too btw. I had the right boss kit but installed it wrong so there was the slightest bit off free play on the steering angle sensor and had the same issue as you

Also later on i would have no power steering assist after startup sometimes randomly. Had to replace the HICAS ECU.

4 hours ago, colourclassic said:

Did the problem start after you installed the aftermarket steering boss?

HICAS relies on a steering angle input to function correctly, if you've recently installed a steering boss which does is not compatible with HICAS it will cause the HICAS ECU to go into 'safe mode' which results in the heavy steering and warning light on the dash.

 

Thanks for replying. I am not sure about the boss kit. The one on the car has been there since I got the car.

However, even I got warning light since last year but I did not get heavy steering until 2 months ago.Pretty tricky.

 

I just find this. http://www.jdmr32.com/hicas-aftermarket-steering-wheel-error-light/

It looks like I should buy a consult interface and maybe a hicas equipped boss as well.

 

13 minutes ago, 89CAL said:

It is really sensitive too btw. I had the right boss kit but installed it wrong so there was the slightest bit off free play on the steering angle sensor and had the same issue as you

Also later on i would have no power steering assist after startup sometimes randomly. Had to replace the HICAS ECU.

 

Why replace the HIACS ECU? Is it broken?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
    • I have more than enough digging, laying blocks, moving gravel, airrating, feeding and top soiling the grass, and setting up the veggie gardens growing some seedlings,  and then removing all the unused rock to keep me busy for the next few months at least,  hopefully the rain stops soon so I can get a few hours in this arvo, but, before that Sunday is washing day, is every body happy, you bet your life we are Nice country road day drives are a day off whenever I'm muscle sore from all the landscaping at the moment, but, more epic multiple day drives will start once the majority of the big jobs outside are completed
    • I hear that would involve some nice country road drives into the hills for Mark...
    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
×
×
  • Create New...