Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 GTT Front Crank Worn - Some Advice

BlazenR34

By BlazenR34,
in Queensland

 Share

Recommended Posts

BlazenR34 Explorer

BlazenR34

Posted
Posted

R34 GTT Front Crank Worn - Some Advice

Hi everyone! I'm looking for some options and advice to a serious problem that occurred to me yesterday.

As you can see from the images below the front crank has been totally worn affecting the Harmonic Balancer and everything else etc effectively make the motor and car dead atm. My car has been extremely well looked after as with everything i own its just one of those devastating things that has happened as the mechanic has said and I still can't believe it. Car has done 130K.

I'm just feeling out the options as its essentially an engine rebuild and i'm doing career stuff overseas etc this is going to be extremely costly. Should i repair/rebuild/wield/sell/hold off any ideas and opinions are welcome.

Based on the Gold Coast, Tweed Heads so if anyone knows any advice on Skyline engine rebuilders as the mechanic shop it is currently residing at are not specialists in that area. They've been amazing to deal with as they have been for the whole time my car has been going there over the years.

Seriously gutted...

Thanks in advance everyone.

14632709_1799994426882282_1734670811_o.jpg

14699629_1799994463548945_448876541_o.jpg

14699396_1799994396882285_1790505862_o.jpg

Nissan_Skyline_Front.jpg

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

Ouch man that sucks, pretty rotten luck! My car's at the workshop at the moment for a head gasket so I've been going through similar questions.

I think a rebuild is probably the most expensive option, especially if all you're after really is a stock engine. Lots and lots of labour plus the risk of missing something in the assembly, unless you pick a really good workshop.

I reckon an engine swap is probably the way to go. You'd probably be looking at around 2k for a second hand Neo and another 2k or so in labour (unless you have a friendly shop) so 4k-ish all up.

If you were to sell, it sounds like the car is currently pretty much a rolling shell so would be tough to get a fair price for it. This said if you don't need the money now but can't afford to rebuild/replace the engine one option is to just let it sit for a while if you have the storage – the way the prices are looking at the moment is pretty stable.

  • Like 1
BlazenR34 Explorer

BlazenR34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, V28VX37 said:

Ouch man that sucks, pretty rotten luck! My car's at the workshop at the moment for a head gasket so I've been going through similar questions.

I think a rebuild is probably the most expensive option, especially if all you're after really is a stock engine. Lots and lots of labour plus the risk of missing something in the assembly, unless you pick a really good workshop.

I reckon an engine swap is probably the way to go. You'd probably be looking at around 2k for a second hand Neo and another 2k or so in labour (unless you have a friendly shop) so 4k-ish all up.

If you were to sell, it sounds like the car is currently pretty much a rolling shell so would be tough to get a fair price for it. This said if you don't need the money now but can't afford to rebuild/replace the engine one option is to just let it sit for a while if you have the storage – the way the prices are looking at the moment is pretty stable.

Thanks for the detailed reply man i really appreciate it and it helped. I just still don't know atm what to do! There will be a solution one way or another i guess!

Cadmoon Grand Master

Cadmoon

Posted
Posted

Few questions, what is your plan for the car?

A daily driven one? Then an engine swap will be the cheapest. You don't necessarily need to go to a shop for that, a few mates with a bit of know how can do it in a day.

A weekend car? Again an engine swap is the cheapest.

Big power one day? Then pull the engine and do a forged rebuild. 

 

BlazenR34 Explorer

BlazenR34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
20 hours ago, Cadmoon said:

Few questions, what is your plan for the car?

A daily driven one? Then an engine swap will be the cheapest. You don't necessarily need to go to a shop for that, a few mates with a bit of know how can do it in a day.

A weekend car? Again an engine swap is the cheapest.

Big power one day? Then pull the engine and do a forged rebuild. 

 

I'd say atm it's a daily driver but i'm on and off overseas.

So mate it's looking to be an engine swap.

I think a big power pull would be up to 10-15k which i can't justify atm. She has lots of mods as does most but still standard engine internals and turbo so she's extremely clean atm

I want to keep her for a weekend car in the future but i'm not sure what my future career stuff is. Whether its here or overseas which is why this couldn't have happened at a worst time! I'm at a crossroads for a lot things...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I hope it's actually possible. This is a write off in insurance world.
    • GTSBoy
      Nismo GT Pro LSD configurations

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. 2-way with shallow ramp angles. Still works.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      That was the first session so not a lot to take from the day. It was low 20s ambient and the coolant had got to 110 (and obviously had some pressure!) so that still needs to be addressed. I haven't downloaded the data yet but will. I had refilled the auto trans with Redline DT6 because it claimed the best viscosity I could find at 100o. It wasn't really long enough to get a good feel for that; while the trans got to 100o in the session it still wasn't shifting crisply as I hoped. I think I'll try a few more sessions before judging. No steering motor overheat but I'd hope not in only 1 session! But finally the suspension; it was night and day over the standard stuff and the car was a couple of seconds quicker on the same crappy tyres, which is a huge difference. I'll stick with that and get some sway bars and a mechanical diff sorted too and see how that all goes together
    • CRSKmD
      R32 Sedan - Grip and Drift (have my cake and eat it too build)

      By CRSKmD · Posted

      I guess it’s partially a compromise of how my car is used, wanting to be able to switch from drift to grip with track side on-car adjustment. Also partially with the way the knuckles are set there is more static camber but less dynamic camber gain. 
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so update from the track day on Friday It was a classic "an unfortunate series of events'. There were a few cars around and when i checked my mirror coming out of the fish hook I notice some smoke from the rear of mine. Looked again and it was getting much worse, I figured I'd blown a turbo or something to got off it and pulled off the racing line. However.... since it is a left hairpin into a right kink, I was on the inside of the next corner. There was a car passing me on the left and a big drop off over the ripple strip on the right......and someone had knocked the witch's hat that was on the apex about 1m onto the track. So, between those 3, I decided to mow down the cone and not damage my car/the other car. Right choice, but surprising result.  The car decided the cone was a small pedestrian so it blew the rear bonnet hinges up to protect their head in the upcoming person to car impact....I didn't see that coming and like an airbag deployment it happened super fast. Straight into the pits from there, everything was driving fine but it became clear it was a coolant leak not smoke, it was billowing up onto the windscreen. Onto the trailer and home. I'll do a separate thread about the repair (once I work out what it is ), but the immediate problem was the bonnet wouldn't open because the front was pinched onto the front bar and would not release. Ultimately we unbolted the hinge from the bonnet, pulled it back a little and it released from the front OK. "There's your problem", the top radiator hose had popped off at the radiator.
×
×
  • Create New...