Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 (maybe R33/34?) boot/trunk lid lock remove and rekey

Thought I would do a quick write up on how to remove the lock assy from the trunk/boot lid and re-key/re-code it to work with your existing door locks and ignition assy.

I used the help of a video from YouTube for the actual re-key part, it made everything very simple.

Tools required:
Socket wrench and 10mm socket
10mm box end wrench
Needle nose pliers
Set of precision/jewelers screwdrivers
This video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FX2AH9-isPA
*Optional* Small dainty fingers you got from your mom's side, not manly sausage fingers like dad :mad:

First step, get your boot/trunk lid, and flip her over, nice and gentle.:nervous:

IMG_1256_zpsctv8vada.jpg

You should see two 10mm bolts holding on the catch or latch assy (not sure what to label it). Remove those bolts and pull off the assy. I will say, looking back, this "might" not have to be removed, but it made it easier for me to see behind there for the actual lock assy.

IMG_1082_zps9tagjxty.jpg
IMG_1083_zpspmpx2fdb.jpg

Next, you'll want to locate the flat piece of metal holding the lock assy on. It has enough of a catch on it for you to get your finger on and pull whichever direction to get it off the lock assy. As far as I can tell, this is what helps hold the assy onto the lid. So make sure you don't lose it and/or bend/break it.

IMG_1085_zps8efgagmr.jpg
IMG_1087_zpsmvg3gbfy.jpg
IMG_1089_zps4fnrna2q.jpg
IMG_1090_zpsa0zf3jfx.jpg

You should now be able to push the lock assy out the lid.

IMG_1091_zpsgc7ipapi.jpg
IMG_1092_zpsgezvfpqw.jpg

Now, move over to your work area so you can begin disassembly.

IMG_1107_zps6bobe6vk.jpg


From here on out, I pretty much followed the video's instructions, pausing it each step. Of course it's a different vehicle, but they work the same way and have similar parts. Make sure to take your time and DO NOT lose any of those springs! Pay attention to the direction things were before you remove them. I would even go as far as taking pictures on your cell phone before doing a step, that way you have a reference to go back to in case you get stuck. The precision screw driver is a must, made it so easy to get parts off and pry little tabs up.

IMG_1108_zpsgp47db7n.jpg
IMG_1109_zpsvpvdhxw3.jpg
IMG_1117_zpsp1i51p3l.jpg
IMG_1121_zpskejd9i7b.jpg
IMG_1122_zpsaqb3fpc4.jpg
IMG_1123_zps5bg7epiy.jpg
IMG_1124_zpsdpssehak.jpg
IMG_1125_zpsu0azjh03.jpg
*NOTE* how the black metal cover appears to be angled, make sure it goes back the same direction*
IMG_1129_zpstoiro31a.jpg
IMG_1138_zpsyxfyp9l3.jpg
Here I just stuck the screwdriver in between the spring and twisted.
IMG_1139_zpsilqq6z6c.jpg
IMG_1145_zpstoihwxcv.jpg
IMG_1146_zpsmcuepylw.jpg
IMG_1148_zpsribzpz1t.jpg
IMG_1149_zpsjp59ghmw.jpg
IMG_1151_zpszlzq4hq1.jpg
Here I paid attention to which tumblers went down and which stayed up. That kind of helped in figuring out which to move around, since they all should go down when the key is stuck in.
IMG_1152_zpslc9adjfr.jpg
Just pry em' out!
IMG_1153_zpsugflh93d.jpg
IMG_1154_zpsoxcgtkwq.jpg
Turn over (maybe give a lil love tap, gently). Be careful!
IMG_1155_zpspfnklnyt.jpg
IMG_1156_zpsqewss9k7.jpg
IMG_1157_zpstngijkfm.jpg
Of course i kept them segregated, I just made one side top and one side bottom in my head and kept them that way and in order from closest to where the key goes in to the end, just in case.
IMG_1158_zpsnmeuusfj.jpg

Switch them around, til you get the key to go in and all the tumblers go down. Sorry, no pic of that, but should self explainitory on that one. Basically switch back and forth between these two steps:
IMG_1148_zpsribzpz1t.jpg
IMG_1149_zpsjp59ghmw.jpg

until they all go down and you can rotate the assy with the key inserted. IF you get them all moved around and one or two won't quite go down enough to be able to roate it, then you might have to file down a tumbler, til it works. I had no issues, matter of fact, had one and a spring left over, haha. :nervous: Re-assy is just reverse of steps.

Hope this was helpful to someone. Please feel free to make any corrections or give any tips.

  • Like 1
  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can ship Nismo floor mats to you: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/nismo-floor-mats-for-skyline-r33-bcnr33-stagea-wgnc34?_pos=1&_sid=9278c1467&_ss=r  
    • Here's the link: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6642/misc/G49?frame_no=WGNC34-137122 What you think about it? The same product i found on nengun: https://www.nengun.com/oem/parts/40567/MiPwn5qAMfCfmpxHNDnwn5q9MDAx8J-QiW9sZC1qcC0xMTAtRzQ5LS0wMDE/Floor+Carpet+%2F+Mat+2/0688339eba149c19 Bot i have spoken to 😅 ensured me, that mats are 100% original, oem product. I have my doubts. I also heard what you mentioned, that nengun often offers items that are actual not available... On the other hand mats i found on japanese yahoo or ebay are in poor condition and still quite expensive so i'd rather wait for some better offers. My location - Poland. We literaly don't have ANY market for used Stagea parts so need to search outside Europe.
    • You can’t see much on the other side as the lcd is there I don’t think it’s the same as the m33 beside it as the markings on top is not the same was hoping someone had a good quality photo or if they just happened to have the unit in hand, quickly take the cover off and take a photo to clearly show the marking on top to identify the diode   the unit is currently with an electronics repair shop so I can’t take another photo at the moment hopefully they are smart enough to know if it’s a zener diode or not
    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
×
×
  • Create New...