Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

I'm taking my car in to be tuned at the start of November, I'm thinking I will do injectors and Higher flowing Petrol pump But need some advice,

She already has the following

Return flow front mount

3" exhaust turbo back

K&N Panel Filter

Hi Flowed R34 Turbo

Yellow Jacket Coil Pack

Apexi Power FC

I figured the injectors and the pump would be the only thing holding it back from making good power?? Thoughts??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467424-r33-gtst-s2-injector-advice/
Share on other sites

Depends on what kind of R34 highflow you have - who did it and what kind of power did they promise? Injectors and AFM will max out at roughly the same time so you could just go with what you have and get 220 - 230kw

What company is the receipt for the the high flow from? An upgraded fuel pump is a must. If your only going to use 98 unleaded, a hardwired walbro 255 will be fine. For E85, a hardwired  walbro 460 or DW300 will do the job. I would suggest some modern top feed injectors, 1000cc would be good for future head room and they still idle perfectly from what people say. Just stay away from cheap shit high flowed/re drilled junk injectors.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...