Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Small upgrades on a r34

Hey guys! i have recently just bought a 4 door R34 Skyline that is turbo. this car has a automatic transmission and has done roughly 210kms.. as this being my first car, i have a few questions about the car that i would love to be answered! 

Pros and Cons about the car apart from it being a auto xD (Reason to it being auto i bought this car for really cheap so it was hard to say no to such a pretty car) 

Main things that are important to know about owning a Skyline

What small modifications would you recommend having? and why? 

I was also thinking of buying a blow off valve for her as i have heard that its healthier for the turbo

Thank you for your time :)

- Hudson

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/467725-small-upgrades-on-a-r34/
Share on other sites

Congratulations on your buy.

The search button is your friend, this has be covered countless times.

First "modification" should always be a complete service of the car. All fluids, filters, plugs.

Following that, brakes, suspension and tyres, spend decent money here, as it literally is the difference between life and death.

Free that you can start playing around with power upgrades. Boost control, turbos, fuel system, ECU ect ect.

You car has a 'BOV' from factory, they can handle decent power before they start bypassing, no point upgrading unless it is leaking at this point in time.

  • Like 2

Heaps. Over $1000 if you do the cambelt and water pump. That's why its a good idea to do it your self. You can do things one at a time to save money and learn as you go - there are tutorials for most things. Do the easy things first - like engine oil and filter, spark plugs, cleaning the coils, checking the brakes etc.

  • Like 1
50 minutes ago, Hudson said:

Thank you very much!
and roughly around how much does it cost to fully service your car?

Buy all the components yourself, that way you know exactly what you have in the car. I personally run Penrite Oils throughout, for all the oils and relevant filters it will set you back around $250, $100-$150 in labour if you take it to a mechanic to do it for you. or if your handy on the tools you will be able to knock it out.

The spark plugs are a bit dearer the will be close to $100 for the set, also a relatively easy job to tackle yourself.

With the Km's on the car i would assume that you checked that it had the timing belt done at the 200,000 mark as these need to be replaced every 100,000.

If it hasn't been done i would advise to do the water pump as well, unless you have had experience working on cars, this one is best left to the mechanics, parts and labour for this job will be around the $500 mark.

There should be a sticker under your bonnet somewhere with when the timing belt was last done, either on the timing cover, rad support, firewall, or strut towers.

If you can't find one, it's recommended that you get the belt replaced, if it lets go it will cost you an engine.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys just some info about timing belts don't be thinking that your timing belt will do 100,000 ks from a new install, maybe the nissan factory belt will at a granny pace but after market belts are only warrented to 40,000 or50,000 or 60,000 ks just depends on the manufactuter read the fine print or go to there web site and find it....Remember a timing belt replacement is better than a topend rebuild or a major blow up>>>>>>>>>

  • Like 1
1 hour ago, gazz1991 said:

Hi guys just some info about timing belts don't be thinking that your timing belt will do 100,000 ks from a new install, maybe the nissan factory belt will at a granny pace but after market belts are only warrented to 40,000 or50,000 or 60,000 ks just depends on the manufactuter read the fine print or go to there web site and find it....Remember a timing belt replacement is better than a topend rebuild or a major blow up>>>>>>>>>

Surely the moral of this story is use OEM belts!

2 hours ago, gazz1991 said:

Hi guys just some info about timing belts don't be thinking that your timing belt will do 100,000 ks from a new install, maybe the nissan factory belt will at a granny pace but after market belts are only warrented to 40,000 or50,000 or 60,000 ks just depends on the manufactuter read the fine print or go to there web site and find it....Remember a timing belt replacement is better than a topend rebuild or a major blow up>>>>>>>>>

not to sure where you get your "information" from, both Dayco and Gates give a 100,000km warranty on their timing belts, and bosch offer 100,000km warranty on their high temperature timing belt

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...