Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It will not work out of the box. You need to fit an IAT sensor and connect up a MAP sensor and ideally also (but not necessarily) a  solenoid for boost control. Then you will need at a minimum to set the ecu according to the injectors you are using and get a tune. You will not have an OBD port - it comes with a cable which plugs straight into a lap top.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468266-r34-link-ecu/#findComment-7800561
Share on other sites

Many thanks
So cannot plug it in and then do the rest? I can also buy the map sensor

The reason i am asking is so it gives me time to ensure turbo and everything else is working as expected before shelling out £500 for mapping

Also at the moment my boost controller sensor which i think does some task including playing with Air and fuel ratio is broken

I know this is bypassed and not needed in link so wanted to buy this ecu rather than wasting £150 on a sensor which i won't need soon

Car is running a bit rough

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468266-r34-link-ecu/#findComment-7800567
Share on other sites

The ECU should have a MAP sensor in it. The G4+ i think has a 4 or 5 bar but the standard G4 is only 3 bar if i remember correctly. If you run a boost line to your ECU you can use the internal MAP sensor to get you going. I would recommend running an external sensor in the engine bay

I played around a bit with mine just to get it to run/drive so I could take it to get tuned. I have a wideband permanently mounted in the car though so could always watch it (mine was rich af on the link base map)

As above I would get a IAT sensor and boost solenoid. I have both on mine

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468266-r34-link-ecu/#findComment-7800574
Share on other sites

The ECU should have a MAP sensor in it. The G4+ i think has a 4 or 5 bar but the standard G4 is only 3 bar if i remember correctly. If you run a boost line to your ECU you can use the internal MAP sensor to get you going. I would recommend running an external sensor in the engine bay

I played around a bit with mine just to get it to run/drive so I could take it to get tuned. I have a wideband permanently mounted in the car though so could always watch it (mine was rich af on the link base map)

As above I would get a IAT sensor and boost solenoid. I have both on mine


Many thanks so essentially you managed to drive around by monitoring the a/f ratio on a wide band sensor?

Does the map sensor sit right before the air filter where current one is?

I guess I have to get a link map sensor , correct?

I believe there was a zx20 map sensor( if that is correct) which people used as an upgrade to standard one

Does the ecu need to be linked up to the wide band sensor?
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468266-r34-link-ecu/#findComment-7800579
Share on other sites

I probably drove mine alot more then I should have untuned. So not recommending driving it daily like this but it will get you to a tuning shop if you don't go putting your foot down etc. I would want to watch AFR's, even though my car was rich, doesnt mean yours will be

MAP sensor can go anywhere, it just needs a boost feed. Mine is tucked up the rear right of the engine bay

I got a Link 4 bar MAP sensor but you may be able to use others

You dont have to hook the wideband up to the ECU but its better to for tuning reasons as well as some on built features of the ECU. You can run closed loop cruise to trim your AFR's when just cruising around sitting on a certain speed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468266-r34-link-ecu/#findComment-7800582
Share on other sites

You can use the built in Map sensor until you get a new turbo and then buy a bigger one - I used a GM 4 bar one. You can use the Link boost solenoid or just buy a Mac valve (the Link is just a rebadged Mac).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468266-r34-link-ecu/#findComment-7800611
Share on other sites

Does this eliminate the existing afr right before the cone filter?

If i understood correctly map sensor is better version of the afr which is on skyline and will replace it but i might be wrong

If i use built in sensor, i just need to get a cable from boost to ecu?

If I buy external one, where does it sit?
Is it anywhere in engine and running a boost line to it?

Do i have to do any wiring to link the external sensor to the link?

Sorry for many questions
I am getting very excited and about to buy the link next week after xmas

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468266-r34-link-ecu/#findComment-7800672
Share on other sites

OK. Lets clear a few things up:

AFR: Air Fuel Ratio

MAP: Manifold Air Pressure

MAF: Mass Air Flow / AFM: Air flow meter

Air fuel ratio is done with a wideband o2 sensor (it is also done on the car from factory with a Narrowband sensor that is only able to read a 'narrow' range of A/F ratio's), this shows how much air and fuel have been used in the comubstion cycle.

MAP Sensor uses manifold pressure (boost/vacuum) to calculate engine load and how much fuel to add and what timing etc. MAF sensor actually calculates air flowing past a certain point to calculate the same things. For this reason MAF's are supposed to be more accurate (given everything being setup and running right).

O.K so with the Link: You CANNOT use the MAF that is factory fitted to the car (well there is no preset setup for it) so can ditch the factor Air flow meter that sits after the air filter and run a boost line (from the manifold - post throttle body, DO NOT run a line pre throttle body) to the ECU for your initial setup. The MAP sensor is built into the ECU so no wiring at all involved. The external MAP sensor can be placed anywhere in the engine bay but keep in mind you will need to run wiring and a boost line to this one. You can use the wiring from the Air flow meter (that you no longer need) to connect up the MAP sensor to the ECU. I would reccomend getting the XS (expansion) harness with the link. This allows you to have a few more inputs/outputs

This is a bad photo but you can see my MAP sensor in the background with the blue boost lines connected to it:

20131122_172442_zps3616830d.jpg

Another pic (Link Boost sensor on the right)

20131106_172943_zpsde1fffd0.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468266-r34-link-ecu/#findComment-7800677
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...