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It will not work out of the box. You need to fit an IAT sensor and connect up a MAP sensor and ideally also (but not necessarily) a  solenoid for boost control. Then you will need at a minimum to set the ecu according to the injectors you are using and get a tune. You will not have an OBD port - it comes with a cable which plugs straight into a lap top.

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Many thanks
So cannot plug it in and then do the rest? I can also buy the map sensor

The reason i am asking is so it gives me time to ensure turbo and everything else is working as expected before shelling out £500 for mapping

Also at the moment my boost controller sensor which i think does some task including playing with Air and fuel ratio is broken

I know this is bypassed and not needed in link so wanted to buy this ecu rather than wasting £150 on a sensor which i won't need soon

Car is running a bit rough

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The ECU should have a MAP sensor in it. The G4+ i think has a 4 or 5 bar but the standard G4 is only 3 bar if i remember correctly. If you run a boost line to your ECU you can use the internal MAP sensor to get you going. I would recommend running an external sensor in the engine bay

I played around a bit with mine just to get it to run/drive so I could take it to get tuned. I have a wideband permanently mounted in the car though so could always watch it (mine was rich af on the link base map)

As above I would get a IAT sensor and boost solenoid. I have both on mine

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The ECU should have a MAP sensor in it. The G4+ i think has a 4 or 5 bar but the standard G4 is only 3 bar if i remember correctly. If you run a boost line to your ECU you can use the internal MAP sensor to get you going. I would recommend running an external sensor in the engine bay

I played around a bit with mine just to get it to run/drive so I could take it to get tuned. I have a wideband permanently mounted in the car though so could always watch it (mine was rich af on the link base map)

As above I would get a IAT sensor and boost solenoid. I have both on mine


Many thanks so essentially you managed to drive around by monitoring the a/f ratio on a wide band sensor?

Does the map sensor sit right before the air filter where current one is?

I guess I have to get a link map sensor , correct?

I believe there was a zx20 map sensor( if that is correct) which people used as an upgrade to standard one

Does the ecu need to be linked up to the wide band sensor?
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I probably drove mine alot more then I should have untuned. So not recommending driving it daily like this but it will get you to a tuning shop if you don't go putting your foot down etc. I would want to watch AFR's, even though my car was rich, doesnt mean yours will be

MAP sensor can go anywhere, it just needs a boost feed. Mine is tucked up the rear right of the engine bay

I got a Link 4 bar MAP sensor but you may be able to use others

You dont have to hook the wideband up to the ECU but its better to for tuning reasons as well as some on built features of the ECU. You can run closed loop cruise to trim your AFR's when just cruising around sitting on a certain speed

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You can use the built in Map sensor until you get a new turbo and then buy a bigger one - I used a GM 4 bar one. You can use the Link boost solenoid or just buy a Mac valve (the Link is just a rebadged Mac).

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Does this eliminate the existing afr right before the cone filter?

If i understood correctly map sensor is better version of the afr which is on skyline and will replace it but i might be wrong

If i use built in sensor, i just need to get a cable from boost to ecu?

If I buy external one, where does it sit?
Is it anywhere in engine and running a boost line to it?

Do i have to do any wiring to link the external sensor to the link?

Sorry for many questions
I am getting very excited and about to buy the link next week after xmas

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OK. Lets clear a few things up:

AFR: Air Fuel Ratio

MAP: Manifold Air Pressure

MAF: Mass Air Flow / AFM: Air flow meter

Air fuel ratio is done with a wideband o2 sensor (it is also done on the car from factory with a Narrowband sensor that is only able to read a 'narrow' range of A/F ratio's), this shows how much air and fuel have been used in the comubstion cycle.

MAP Sensor uses manifold pressure (boost/vacuum) to calculate engine load and how much fuel to add and what timing etc. MAF sensor actually calculates air flowing past a certain point to calculate the same things. For this reason MAF's are supposed to be more accurate (given everything being setup and running right).

O.K so with the Link: You CANNOT use the MAF that is factory fitted to the car (well there is no preset setup for it) so can ditch the factor Air flow meter that sits after the air filter and run a boost line (from the manifold - post throttle body, DO NOT run a line pre throttle body) to the ECU for your initial setup. The MAP sensor is built into the ECU so no wiring at all involved. The external MAP sensor can be placed anywhere in the engine bay but keep in mind you will need to run wiring and a boost line to this one. You can use the wiring from the Air flow meter (that you no longer need) to connect up the MAP sensor to the ECU. I would reccomend getting the XS (expansion) harness with the link. This allows you to have a few more inputs/outputs

This is a bad photo but you can see my MAP sensor in the background with the blue boost lines connected to it:

20131122_172442_zps3616830d.jpg

Another pic (Link Boost sensor on the right)

20131106_172943_zpsde1fffd0.jpg

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