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Need help with wiring

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By -S-,
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-S- Community Regular

-S-

Posted
Posted

bf89e1aec44d6f606ac68354b484f9b6.jpg

Hi all,

Need help with the attach picture. Can u guys send me a pic of that exact spot or can I assume A connects to A and B to B as per the pic?

Can't believe a f**king rodent can cause me so much pain and suffering and unwanted expenses!! [emoji35][emoji34]

And also can i drive around without those attach and i have no known issues of over heating ? [Till i have the connectors ordered and arrived of course]

Thanks!

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Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

No, they are not connected. top/black is a coolant sensor for dash, lower/red is a coolant sensor for ECU. the things you marked b are earths.

I don't know which colour wire from the engine loom needs to run to each, but you may be able to tell from the remaining wire at the sensor/earth end.

Can you just get a new engine loom? And what is it, 33 gtst?

Oh btw if it starts and runs, yes you can drive around without them. It won't run properly when cold (because ECU won't know it's cold) and your dash gauge probably won't work

-S- Community Regular

-S-

Posted
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An engine loom will cost more. I mean they're also selling just the connectors so might as well utilise them?
f**king hell it's pissing me off...can anyone send me a pic of theirs so i know what connects what?

This is from a rb25det.
i won't be doing the work. Will send it to a mechanic. And i am using a power fc too if that makes any difference...

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

I can't help with a pic but hopefully someone can.

The only connector you need is for the coolant temp sensor (red). You have the connector (black) for the dash sender, which it may not be repairable due to not enough wire, it can be replaced with a simple crimp connector. The earths are also crimp connectors so nothing special there use a 10mm spanner or socket on the bolts to disconnect them

The other part to this puzzle is the wires at the end of your engine loom that used to go to those connectors. Do you have a pic of the end of your engine loom?

In any case a reasonable mechanic or auto electrician will sort it out

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

OK, so assuming it starts and drives, you take it to a competent mechanic, (it will probably run poorly when cold so let it warm up for say 5 min). They will say "holy shit, what's this mess", you'll tell them to fix it, they'll pull back the engine loom wrapping far enough to see the colours and will match the wires in that loom to the remaining wires at the manifold that you've pictured, they'll rejoin them all (probably 5 or 6 in total) and everything will be happy again.

  • 3 weeks later...
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

do you have a hand controller as well? If you go under sensor check you can see which sensor is causing the check light.

my guess would be it won't cause the light because it would just read a broken wire as some sort of very low temp. but that's just a guess....

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

It should be looking for a voltage (usually between 0.5v and 4.5v) and anything outside that is a sensor fault (short circuit would be 5v and open circuit would be 0v)
Fairly sure this will show up in sensor/sw check but may also give a fixed, incorrect value as well as suggested

-S- Community Regular

-S-

Posted
  • Author
Posted
It should be looking for a voltage (usually between 0.5v and 4.5v) and anything outside that is a sensor fault (short circuit would be 5v and open circuit would be 0v)
Fairly sure this will show up in sensor/sw check but may also give a fixed, incorrect value as well as suggested

I don't have the time to check yet as car isn't with me. .. so saying that. .. the car will trigger the engine check light? ?
  • 1 month later...

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