Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Looking for some feedback before I head down the expensive road of ripping off my exhaust manifold.

So I upgraded the std snail to a hypergear ATR43SS2 with relevant supporting mods, so far I have managed 16psi out of it, hit a brick wall due to slipping clutch on dyno and some other small issues, so a majority of the issues are all fixed bar one that is really driving me nuts as I want it sorted before it goes back on to crank it up.IMG_1485768063.601685.jpg.1354415ab33cc4

So I'm having issues with the gaskets that sit between the spacer and the manifold, so far have gone through three different type of gaskets that all just keep blowing out, one lasted about a week with relatively easy driving, one two days then the other about two weeks.

I've been told numerous fixes / could be caused to the issue.

The last resort is rip it off and check the surface of the manifold then if all fine to have it welded, I'm a little reluctant to pull it off as I know il be up for re-tapping the bolts etc etc.

Wondering if anyone has any feedback.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/468858-rb25-manifold-gasket-issue/
Share on other sites

Random observation but the manifold spacer supplied with my ATR43SS3 is noticeably thicker than yours:

32094280372_7b399f184d.jpg

Maybe check with @hypergear which one it's meant to be, and/or if the thickness matters at all?

5 hours ago, ADM33T said:


It's just doing my head in for something that should be so simple.
But I guess when we start modifying it should be expected.

It's not really that you've modified anything.  It's not as though you're running monster exhaust manifold pressure.  But if you try to slap a slab of steel between 2 other surfaces and don't ensure that all 4 faces are straight and true (and collectively parallel!) then you're spinning the roulette wheel.

It's not really that you've modified anything.  It's not as though you're running monster exhaust manifold pressure.  But if you try to slap a slab of steel between 2 other surfaces and don't ensure that all 4 faces are straight and true (and collectively parallel!) then you're spinning the roulette wheel.


The other issue I guess is that il have to keep approx $400 aside for when I snap a bolt to get off, everyone I have spoken to has said that the bolts will def snap.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...