Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 steering rack

Bllack

By Bllack,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Bllack Explorer

Bllack

Posted
Posted

R34 steering rack

Anybody know if there is a difference in an automatic steering rack and a manual one on the r34??

i have a plug on my alternator loom for the steering rack but I have no sensor on the rack for it to plug into, thinking i may have an auto steering rack?? My car is a factory manual

 

first photo is my rack, and second photo is one of the net

IMG_4474.JPG

IMG_4472.JPG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469026-r34-steering-rack/
Share on other sites
chiksluvit Experienced

chiksluvit

Posted
Posted

The plug should go on the hard line before it enters the rack, not on the rack itself, trace from the high pressure line and you should be able to find it, I think it's near the oil filter area

My r34 steering rack definitely didn't have any sensor or valve and it's a manual

Bllack Explorer

Bllack

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 minute ago, chiksluvit said:

The plug should go on the hard line before it enters the rack, not on the rack itself, trace from the high pressure line and you should be able to find it, I think it's near the oil filter area

My r34 steering rack definitely didn't have any sensor or valve and it's a manual

Okay well I've looked at a whole heap of photos, manuals, turbo and na, and some have the plug and some don't, so I'm assuming it's been changed over the years or something, thank heaps for the reply 

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

I Did tell you about this in your other thread.

Does your steering feel heavy when driving around parking lots? The plug on the rack is for the power assist solenoid. It controls how much assistance the power steering gives, Lots at low speed and not much/none at higher speeds

The switch on the pressure line is for idle. When you steer it bumps up the idle, especially important when the air con and alternator are working

Bllack Explorer

Bllack

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 hours ago, chiksluvit said:

Sorry my bad
Had a look at my car last night and there IS a brown plug on the rack
IMG_1486940405.672147.jpg

 


Can't really see the plug but you can see the harness coming out of the rack

There is another plug on the high pressure line tho, might be that?

 

Yeah see mine doesn't have that harness Coming of the rack, it's for the idle control when steering, but I don't know why some racks have them and some don't 

Bllack Explorer

Bllack

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, 89CAL said:

I Did tell you about this in your other thread.

Does your steering feel heavy when driving around parking lots? The plug on the rack is for the power assist solenoid. It controls how much assistance the power steering gives, Lots at low speed and not much/none at higher speeds

The switch on the pressure line is for idle. When you steer it bumps up the idle, especially important when the air con and alternator are working

Yes and that helped me mate thanks!

 

The plug is for the idle control but I've looked at different photos of different racks and some have the plug and some don't, my rack hasn't got it but my loom does because I changed it

chiksluvit Experienced

chiksluvit

Posted
Posted

Interestingly there is a mechanical valve that comes off the PS pump on the banjo that controls the idle. I've taken that off and blocked it when I changed my pressure line, just raised the idle a little

My guess is the one on the rack is could be for variable steering assist? Could be a HICAS model vs non HICAS model difference?

These r34s are a bit more complex than r33 I found...

Bllack Explorer

Bllack

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 minute ago, chiksluvit said:

Interestingly there is a mechanical valve that comes off the PS pump on the banjo that controls the idle. I've taken that off and blocked it when I changed my pressure line, just raised the idle a little

My guess is the one on the rack is could be for variable steering assist? Could be a HICAS model vs non HICAS model difference?

These r34s are a bit more complex than r33 I found...

I thought it could of been for hicas models too but I'm pretty sure hicas only affects the rear steering racks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...