Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB26 Timing crank gear, woodruff key, crank pulley install instructions

Hi all,

Doing a timing belt service for my 90 GTR.  I changed the front main seal as well as the cam seals.

I removed the crank pulley and the timing crank gear.  Very difficult, I ended up having to use a puller on the crank gear and I will be replacing it because it seems like it has warped and that was causing my removal difficulties.

I have questions about the installation.

#1. I have a replacement crank timing gear on order.  My existing one will not move at all without a tool on the crank shaft, is that normal?

#2. What order or instructions for installing the crank timing gear and getting it aligned with the woodruff key?  My gear doesn't just easily move along the crankshaft, and I certainly can't rotate it about the crankshaft.  So it seems like I have to push it using a socket as a tool, but it has to be perfectly aligned and non-trivial.  Is there a trick to this?  I will have the same question for the crank pulley. (ie. do you leave the key in the crankshaft and just push the pulley onto the crankshaft via trial and error?).

 

You will probably find the new crank gear just slips on. When i rebuilt my engine, i had to heat and pull the old gear off but the new one just slipped on. This makes it easy. Put woodruff key in and slide gear on.

As for the crank pulley. Its tapered AFAIK so you will get it over the key before it starts going tight. Should be ok to pull it in with the bolt (do not use rattle gun)

Received the new timing crank gear via mail.

No luck on an easy install.  I guess my crank must be slightly warped, it was a huge PITA to remove the pulley and timing gear.  I'm going to try and polish it with steel wool to remove any buildup and use a bit of grease too. 

I guess if I have to, I'll try and put ice packs on the crankshaft and maybe even see if I can heat the gear to 100deg in the oven and see if that gives me enough clearance to get a quick install.

It's a fun car, but sure is not any fun doing maintenance on it.

Just go over it with some 1000 grit sandpaper. Use some crc or wd40 to lube the sand paper and give it a polish.

The old key hasn't mushroomed the groove or anything and made a high spot?

OK, I got it all back together.

Anyone else diy'ing this.  You put both woodruff keys into the crankshaft.  Back the timing gear onto the first key, and as it goes along, it will align itself to the second.

To push the timing gear all the way to the front seal, you can use the crankshaft pulley and push them both along.  I'm going to slightly  drill out my older timing gear and that would make a perfect sized piece for a future tool to push timing gears back.

I have to do the job again (water pump leaking.....didn't read about the different bolt holes on a std versus n1 sized pump, and that oblong hole just gushed out water).  

Good news is that I'm an expert at RB26 timing belts now and can do it in like 2-3 hours. :3_grin:

My oil pressure slowly drops after driving it around and will go up under load.  I replaced the sender along with an oil change and seeing the same results, so I'm thinking my oil pump indeed needs replacement.  I doubt a gauge failure would show that symptom.  Then my car will be a perfect weekend toy for a while!

I would expect oil pressure to drop as the engine warms up and go up with revs but if you think you should replace it the timing gear will seem like child's play!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...