Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

New ECU

Hi guys, I have a problem with my ECU and will look to purchase a new/used one over the next week. I am aware of the NATS issue and would need to get the ECU to talk to the BCM to get keys to work. Is the procedure the same as reprogramming "new" FOBs to work with the car? Meaning I could get Nissan to just reprogram my keys to the new ECU?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469177-new-ecu/
Share on other sites

There's a fair bit that needs doing, according to the workshop manual:

  1. Initialise the NATS system and re-register all keys
  2. Register the VIN
  3. Relearn accelerator pedal released position
  4. Relearn throttle valve closed position
  5. Relearn idle air volume

If the ECU you buy is a new one (i.e. completely virgin, no prior data programmed into it), then the procedure for step 1 should be fairly straightforward and automatic. Otherwise, it will need Nissan to do that for you with their Consult tool.

Steps 2 and 5 will definitely also require the same Consult tool.

Steps 3 and 4 don't need the Consult tool.

All in all, there's no technical reason why your local Nissan dealer couldn't do this for you, unless they're arseholes. In which case, if I was in WA, I'd be happy to volunteer my Consult III+ tool and have some nerdy fun helping you out, provided you have the PIN tag, as I don't have the immobiliser module for the scan tool.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469177-new-ecu/#findComment-7812763
Share on other sites

Where can I get the PIN tag? 

For 1. it seems like it I get a new one I could get it to pair with the key by just putting into the key fob holder...should be that easy. However with used one it seems like Consult tool will need to be used to reprogram NATS etc....

I called one of my contacts at a Nissan dealer...they were asked not to help at all with imports. Anyway he said to be even if I get an ECU in, I need to reprogram the ECU and Keys....which I didn't really understand. I thought as long as I got the ECU with the same part number as mine, I would only need to worry about the keys...(and 3,4,5) which we both agree on.

In your reading do you see anything that says the ECU needs to be reprogrammed to run on the car?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469177-new-ecu/#findComment-7812769
Share on other sites

The PIN tag is a little metal plate, around 5mm x 12mm which has four digits stamped into it. Mine was attached to both of my keys when I received the car. If that's missing, you need the immobiliser module for the Consult III+ tool to bypass the PIN checking, or otherwise it's a matter of making enquiries back to Japan to have it calculated from other numbers found on the BCM sticker or something like that. There's a thread all about that somewhere in this forum.

If the ECU is brand new, then you'll be able to start the car as per the virgin ECU procedure.

If it's a second hand ECU, which therefore has the details of another vehicle programmed into it, then you will need to reprogram it as previously stated.

Alternatively, do what I did five years ago when I bought my car and jump on AliBaba.com to buy a Consult III+ tool, software and immobiliser module. ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/469177-new-ecu/#findComment-7812773
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...