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Overactive Radiator Fan


cherring
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Overactive Radiator Fan

My car is an R32 Gtst. Not too long ago the fan started to run non-stop and after doing some research on here I replaced the viscous clutch with this one, but the fan still runs a lot more than it should, my temperature gauge not getting up above 70C on days that are about 35C, I'm not sure my thermostat would even open at these temperatures. Because of this I also replaced the ECU Water temp sensor hoping that that would sort it out, but still, the fan is going too much. I am not sure what to check next. Multimeter to make sure the sensor is getting power? Should I get a consult cable and plug ECUtalk and see if there is an error code? 

I am not sure what I should try. If I need to just take it to a mechanic I will, but am trying to save the expense if I can. Any guidance very welcome.

Thanks guys.

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Those viscous hubs are mechanical and engage at a certain temperature detected by the brass coil you see on the front.
ECU controls none of this.

I had an issue once when I purchased a brand new hub. It took some time before it actually started functioning correctly.
I believe there's a run in procedure you need to follow when installing the new hub. Were instructions included with your new hub?

I called it quits and found myself a near new condition R34 GTT hub which also suits the R32 fan. Genuine item and at least 10 years newer.
No issues so far. I have 3 spare genuine hubs all in working condition. If you want to go that route let me know and I can send one your way.

Edited by jmknights93
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For what its worth, I've had a Davies Craig fan hub, and it was the worst thing in the world. It may as well have been a solid fan hub, it NEVER went any speed besides flat out. The genuine fan hub on the car originally was by far the best. I have a Dayco fan hub now designed for an RB30 in an R31 Skyline. This is only because it doesnt have as long a shaft and I had some clearance issues with my new radiator and fan shroud. I would say it is just about on par with a genuine one. Probably due to it being for a different model, the temps its designed to work at might be a touch different, but for the most part it is perfectly fine.

FYI genuine ones are about $300-$400 usually

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Mate had the same issue with his 33 when he had a Davies Craig clutch too. I swapped it with an old spare I had and never looked back.

They are really horrible.

The Dayco one I bought is way better
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